Pet Bucket Blog

It's an easy point to drive home time and again, but bringing home a new puppy has a lot in common with welcoming a human baby into the family. There are a lot of growing pains that puppies and their owners will have to go through as both sides adjust to the new environment in the home. One of the most difficult hurdles to conquer during those early weeks and months is teething.   Puppies, just like human babies, have a set of puppy teeth that grow into place, fall out, and get replaced with full-size adult canine teeth. During this period your puppy is going to be irritable, whiny, and is going to become obsessed with chewing on anything it can get its mouth on. How can you survive teething in your puppy? More important, what can you do to ease its pain during the process?   Why puppies chew Human beings come into this world with poor motor skills and limited sensory capabilities. Children learn by experiencing the world around them. Your puppy is no different, except for the fact that it is born with a strong sense of taste and smell. Puppies naturally experience the world by placing things in their mouth and chewing on them.   By the time your puppy is 12 weeks old, its final puppy teeth will have pushed through the gums and come into place. However, just a few short weeks later your puppy will start losing those teeth. As those teeth begin to fall out, and begin to be replaced by adult teeth, you will likely notice your puppy chewing on anything and everything.   Your puppy isn't doing this to be bad, or even necessarily to experience the world. Your puppy is doing this to relieve the pain of teething. This makes it important for you to be attentive to chewing habits starting around 16 weeks. With a few helpful tips you can protect the valuable items in your household and instill proper chewing habits in your pup at the same time.   Good chewing vs. bad chewing During teething, you are going to notice your puppy chewing on anything it can get its teeth on. Be attentive and watch what your pup is chewing on. When you notice it chewing on a shoe, the leg of furniture, or a TV remote, correct it with a stern "no." Follow that up by providing your pup with a proper chew toy to reinforce that the other item was bad, and this substitute is good/acceptable.   Provide an outlet for chewing The best thing you can do to protect the valuables in your home is provide your pup with plenty of acceptable chew toys. This applies to the life of your pup, but during its teething phase it is even more important. It is going to be chewing randomly throughout the day to relieve the pain associated with teething, so the more toys you have available for it to chew on the better.   Some good ideas for chew toys include rope bones (good for chewing, resistant to wear and tear), Kong toys (hard rubber, resistant to wear and tear), and other toys made with tough rubber that is resistant to wearing down quickly.   Simple remedies When children are teething, most parents offer them something cold to chew on. It helps numb the pain of teething. Your puppy can benefit from the same methods. An inexpensive option is to soak a washcloth in water and stick it in the freezer. Additionally, keep large, chilled carrots handy in the fridge. Give your puppy one of these as a nice treat that can also help sooth sore gums.

Most cats prefer to be left home, but if you’re traveling somewhere together or just need to take your cat to the vet, follow these tips for a safe trip in the summer time. Cats in cars   image credit No matter the time of year, the safest way to transport your cat in the car is to keep them in a carrier in the backseat. Remember, just because your cat is in the carrier, doesn’t mean you shouldn’t buckle them in! By securing the seat belt around the front of the carrier, you’ll prevent it from bouncing around and potentially injuring your cat. Heat hazard Even though 72°F weather doesn't sound very hot, this temperature could be life-threatening to a cat left in a car. It only takes one hour for the inside of a car to reach 116°F - and that’s only when it’s 72°F. On an even hotter day, it only takes 10 minutes reach temperatures over 100°F.   image credit That being so, you should never leave your cat in a car during the heat of summer. Such conditions will put your cat at risk for heatstroke, a fever caused by the body being incapable of regulating such high temperatures. The symptoms of heatstroke range from agitation and heavy panting, to coma and death if left untreated. Keep your cat cool If you’re going to be in the car for awhile, keep the air conditioning on or the windows open to allow ventilation. Make sure not to cover your cat’s carrier in a way that will prevent air flow through the carrier’s holes. Another way to keep your cat cool is to place an ice pack wrapped in a towel or sock inside the carrier. Pit stops If your journey requires pitstops, try to park in a shaded area with the windows completely down. You should never leave your cat unattended - a quick run into the convenience store could easily turn into a 10-15 minute ordeal. If you need to get out of your car for a rest or bathroom break, place the carrier in a grassy, shaded area and give your cat some water. Have someone watch your cat while you’re away, and look for any signs of heat stroke.     Feature image credit

What can you do when there are other cats in your garden - and you don't want them there! Cats are experts at climbing fences, gates, trees and squeezing through small gaps. Trying to keep your neighbour’s or other uninvited cats out of your garden may seem like an impossible task, but there are measures you can take to keep them out.  It’s more than likely other cats have noticed yours and simply want to interact, but you don’t want to risk any aggressive behavior between the cats. The aim is to deter other cats from entering your garden without interfering with your own cat’s enjoyment and comfort.   Both male and female cats are territorial. Unfamiliar or uninvited cats in your garden can cause your cat to feel stressed and upset, and may even lead to fights and injuries. If the intruding cat is not known to you, uncertainty about the cat’s health and their vaccination status is a big concern. Also, if your cat becomes scared or is chased by the other cat, they may escape the garden and be exposed to the dangers of traffic or become lost.   Neighbourhood visitors If the intruder is a neighour’s cat, you should discuss the situation with your neighbor. They may not be aware that their cat is making themselves at home - at YOUR home! When you approach your neighbour be polite, friendly and collaborative and they will hopefully want to solve the problem just as much as you do.   If you can, observe what time the intruding cat arrives, what they do and how long they stay. Dawn and dusk are the times when cats are most active and are inclined to roam and hunt. All cats should be kept indoors during these hours, including yours. If the intruding cat is coming at a regular time each day, ask your neighbour to keep their cat indoors at that time.   You could also negotiate with your neighbour different times for your cats to be outside so that their cat is not tempted to visit your cat and vice versa. For example, they may let their cat outside for a few hours in the morning whilst yours is indoors, and your cat could be allowed outside during the afternoon.   If you think your intruder may be a stray or lost and it is tame and approachable, try capturing it and taking it to your local animal shelter. If the cat is very frightened, aggressive or you suspect that it is feral, call your local shelter or animal control organisation to capture the cat.   Removing temptation Desexing (spaying or neutering) will reduce a cat’s temptation to roam but will also reduce their attractiveness to other cats, particularly males.   Don’t leave any food for your cat in the garden, instead keep their food bowl indoors. Any cat that is spending time outside should be provided with ample fresh water.   Make sure your family and neighbours are not feeding the intruding cats and therefore encouraging them into the area and to your garden.   Ensure the lids on your garbage bins are tightly secured and that any garbage can't be easily accessed by a hungry cat.   Discouraging and scaring the intruding cat Water: Cats dislike water. When you see the uninvited cat, spray it with a water pistol or a garden hose on a gentle setting. After a few sprayings they should be deterred from coming back. If you are not going to be home, you can use a motion-sensing water sprinkler or a sprinkler on a timer. Move the sprinklers around so that the intruding cat doesn’t have a safe area. You’ll need to keep your cat indoors until the other cat no longer returns.   You can purchase ultrasonic alarms that are activated by movement. Again, keep your cat indoors for the entire time it takes the intruding cat to be scared away.   Fencing: Most fences are fairly ineffective when it comes to cats. However, there are a number of solutions you can adopt, just make sure you involve any neighbours who share your fence.   Attach a trellis to your fence to raise the height and block cats from entering.   Smear the tops of your fence palings and railings with Vaseline, petroleum jelly or any other slippery and harmless substance. Cats won't be able to get sufficient grip to climb and stay on. Plastic or metal piping placed along the top of the fence will have the same effect.   Run tight string or wire 10-15cm above the fence along its length so that cats find it difficult to jump up and balance. You could also erect an electric line along the top to discourage climbing and perching.   Strips of plastic spikes can be placed along the tops of fences to prevent cats and birds from walking or perching. Make sure you buy from a recommended and approved seller and check with your local council before laying the spikes in case there are regulations that need to be adhered to.   Plants: Placing prickly plants like cactus and berberis around the inner perimeter of your garden will make cats think twice about jumping down from, or climbing through, the fence. Pine cones or sharp rocks laid around should also do the trick.   A number of plants have scents that cats find unpleasant so will act as deterrents if positioned around the perimeter, leaving the rest of the garden for your cat to enjoy. Plants such as lemon thyme, geraniums, marigolds, lavendar, Coleus canina, pyrethrum and Pennyroyal are disliked by cats. You could also try spraying the essence or oil of lavendar, citrus, lemon thyme, oregano, peppermint on fences, gates or anywhere the cat is accessing your garden. Commercial cat deterrent sprays are also available. You will need to reapply every few days and after rain.   Dogs: Have a friend’s dog stay for a few weeks, or have the dog brought around in the morning and stay in your garden during the day. Keep your cat safely indoors for this period. After being chased away a few times, the intruding cat will think your garden is now a no-go place.  Adopting some of these measures should discourage any unwelcome cat visitors and leave your cat happy, comfortable and safe in your garden. Image credit

If you want to set your dog up with a furry friend but don't know where to begin, here are some simple tips to create both a fun and safe environment for your dog's playdate. 1. Set the playdate up in a safe, neutral environment This could be a dog park, dog-friendly beach, nature reserve, or any neutral environment for a first meeting. The most important thing is that both dogs will feel comfortable in the environment. For an initial play date, it may not be the best idea to hold the play date at someone’s house as some dogs may feel their space is being invaded. 2. Choose your dog's date wisely To ensure no bullying goes on during the playdate, it’s best to set up dogs who have the same temperament and energy levels. Matching a senior dog with a puppy probably won't be fun for either dog involved. It’s also important to make sure the dogs are similar in size incase playing gets physical.  3. Let the dogs greet each other and see how they react Compatibility can be determined within the first few minutes that two dogs meet. With the dogs leashed, allow the dogs to sniff and interact while paying attention for any sign of aggression. If aggression is shown, separate the dogs for a few minutes and try again. If once again the dogs don’t get along, the play date should end. It’s better to be safe than sorry. 4. The more toys the merrier Put out a variety of toys to make play time more interesting for your dog and their companions. Whether it’s throwing a ball and having the dogs race to catch it, or providing a rope for a tug-of-war contest, toys are sure to add even more fun to the date. 5. Supervise the playing Keep a lookout to make sure both dogs are enjoying themselves and are comfortable with one another. If playing gets too aggressive or you think one dog is bullying the other, it may be time to break things up.  6. Provide breaks, water, and shade It’s important to break up play every so often to let the dogs have a quick cool down. The best ways to do this are to call your dog enthusiastically, or bribe them with a favorite toy or treat. If the playdate is going on outside, make sure to keep your dog hydrated and cool in the shade during the breaks.

Ouch! One moment you are cuddling your soft purring kitty and the next moment their teeth are embedded in your finger. What is behind cats and finger nipping?   Image Credit   Rarely is your cat actually being aggressive when they dig their teeth into your finger. If we had thick fur and stretchy skin like a cat, a nip wouldn’t hurt all that much. Between littermates and mothers and kittens, biting and chewing is regular and acceptable behaviour. When your cat nips you on the fingers, it is probably simply expressing his or her affection for you as they would to another cat.   Whilst it's sweet and lovely that your cat is being so affectionate, the nipping probably needs to stop - especially if they are accidentally drawing blood!   Image Credit Since their intentions are positive, it is best not to reject their well-meant gesture with shouting and scolding. Placing them on the ground and stopping your cuddle session can work quite well as your cat learns chewing leads to the end of their special time with you for a while. It may take some time but eventually the association will become firm.   Chewing behaviour in kittens can also be related to teething, your fingers simply being convenient ‘chew toys’ for your kitten to relieve their discomfort on. If you suspect this may be part of the problem try providing alternatives for them to gnaw on, such as special cat toys or chewy treats.   Image Credit   Persistence and clear rules set down fairly and firmly will eventually put an end to the problem, as your kitten or cat learns their love bites aren't desired and are best either stopped, or reserved for toys.     Feature Image Credit  

Cats tend not to be keen on strangers in the house, new environments or hustle and bustle, making the general craziness of a house move a kind of feline nightmare. But with planning and sensitivity to your kitty’s fears and needs, it is possible to engineer a cat-move that is almost stress-free.   Here are our suggestions on how to turn kitty’s journey into an adventure rather than a nightmare.   On moving day, create a cat cave A cat left to wander the house or roam outside during a move is liable not only to get frightened by all the unexpected activity but also possibly get under the feet of removalists carrying heavy furniture – not a happy prospect! The best solution is to find an area in your house to lock your cat, such as the bathroom or laundry, fitted out with food and water bowls, a litter tray and toys.   Image Credit A sign on the door of this safe haven warning others that the cat is relaxing inside should mean your cat is sheltered from much of the strange noises and sights as their current home is packed up and moved out.   The car trip itself…   Image Credit Wait until everything has been fully packed up before disturbing your cat. Place them in their crate and in the car, covering it with a towel to make it dark and extra relaxing if your cat starts to become stressed.   Depending on how far away your new house is, you may need to stop to give your cat some water. We recommend climbing in the back seat with your cat and shutting the car before you open the cage, to prevent your cat shooting past and out into an unfamiliar environment where you may not be able to find them again.     When you arrive, take it slow   It is best when releasing your cat into your new house to introduce each room one at a time rather than possibly overwhelming them with the experience of a vast alien environment. Cats are naturally territorial, meaning they attach very strongly to their established home range and are highly suspicious of new places where other cats may, in their minds, be present waiting to attack, not to mention other unknown threats that may exist.   Image Credit It is best to find a room, like the laundry or bathroom, to act as their ‘home base’. Gradually expand their range as they become comfortable with each new area. Pheromone diffusers or old bedding that smells like your cat not only relaxes and comforts your kitty but is a useful way to get them to adjust to each new room your introduce them to.   If your cat lived outdoors previously, we recommend not letting them outside for some time when you first move in, as they may be inclined to roam, searching for their old range and become lost. After at least two weeks you can release them, making sure they have a collar with a tag as well as a microchip in case they find themselves unable to remember their way back to their family.   With a bit of time and care, your cat should be just as pleased with their new home as you are!   Feature Image Credit  

What is it? Nipping, also known as gentle mouthing is not biting. It's something that puppies do a lot of and most of the time it's while they play. Controlling the force of their nipping or gentle mouthing is called bite inhibition and usually puppies quickly learn this ability when they are frequently socialised. It's important that your puppy learns to control their bite inhibition from a young age so they don't carry bad habits into adulthood. Puppies will often learn bite inhibition while they are still with their litter and will grasp that nipping can often lead to a period of ostracization so quickly learn to control their bite so play time can continue!   Why do puppies do it? Puppies nip because, well, they're puppies! Nipping is a part of their development that lasts until they are six to nine months of age, sometimes older. Other reasons for nipping include:     •    Teething     •    Learn more about dog culture     •    Makes life more exciting! Why they should learn not to nip While it's all pretty painless and rather cute when they are puppies, if bite inhibition and nipping behaviour is not curbed it will become an unattractive and troublesome quality in your pooch as they enter adulthood. If your objective is to have a well turned out, obedient adult dog then you must teach them to control their bite inhibition. How to stop it? Your goal out of all of this is to a.) teach your puppy that like other dogs, humans also have very sensitive skin, so care must be taken when they use their mouth and b.) to stop mouthing and biting altogether. To successfully teach your dog to quit their nipping habit, you will need to be consistent and regularly attend to your dog's bite strength. You will have to monitor their biting behaviour throughout their entire life. Fortunately, if you start teaching them young, your dog is bound to carry on with their excellent behaviour, without much need to intervene when they are older. The first thing you will have to do is focus on your puppy's tooth pressure. Allow your pooch to place their teeth on you but it's up to you as to how much pressure they can apply. Every consequential play session, less pressure is allowed. If/when your puppy nips harder than allowed say a word that signifies a mistake - something like "Oops" will do. Once you say your word, stop playing straightaway and look away from your puppy for around 10 seconds and make sure you ignore your pup. Once the embargo is over, begin playing again in your usual friendly way. Like when they were in the littler, your pup is quickly learning to correlate nipping with no play so will be eager to be more careful with their teeth so play time is never over! As soon as your puppy has mastered the art of being careful with their teeth, you will now need to teach them to not use their teeth at all on skin or clothing. To achieve this, you carry on as you were before when teaching them to watch the pressure of their teeth, except as soon as their teeth touches your skin, your say your magic mistake word and put them in to time out - even if you know it was a mistake. Following this method, your puppy will become a perfect, gentle pooch. Tips for a nip-free puppy If your puppy is coming from a breeder, try and wait for a long as possible (at least eight weeks) before bringing them home. Arrange plenty of play dates with other puppies and friendly (vaccinated) adult dogs. Socialising your dog in a variety of environments, increases their confidence, which helps to eliminate nipping. Make sure you have plenty of different and interesting toys for your pooch to chew on. Learn to 'be a tree' for when your puppy gets a little boisterous. Hand-feeding your dog increases your bond and allows more practice time for learning to mouth politely. Get your puppy started in obedience classes as soon as you can! Make sure your puppy is getting plenty of mental and physical stimulation. If your dog is getting a little out of control with their nipping, you can distract them by feeding them treats using your other hand to encourage them to tone down their nipping. Diversify with non-contact forms of play.

If your cat seems to be avoiding their dinner bowl, and when they do give in and eat, seem to do so using only one side of their mouth, have a look at their pearly whites. Cats have quite fragile teeth – particularly the canines, which can be susceptible to breakages and can cause a variety of problems and diseases.    Teeth mismatching in length on either side of the jaw likely signifies a fracture. Additonally, if a tooth is displaying discoloration, such as a pink, black or brown tip, your cat may indeed have dental issues in need of addressing.    Image Credit Cats commonly break their teeth in jumps gone wrong, where the cat misjudges a distance and ends up smacking their jaw upon landing. Car accidents are another typical way feline teeth are battered as well as catfights where the cats unintentionally smash their teeth together. A trip to the vet is vital if you suspect or spot a cracked or snapped tooth as not only can breaks be terrifically painful, they can also lead to serious health issues if infection sets in. Don't wait for serious symptoms to develop – any tooth breakage is serious automatically and requires treatment.   Lack of treatment will allow bacteria to seep into the sensitive pulp beneath the enamel casing of a broken tooth. This will cause the tooth to die, and the area to become a bacterial haven which gradually leaks out through the bottom of the tooth and attacks the jawbone. Blood vessels will form a roadway for bacteria to reach the rest of your cat’s body, such as the liver, kidneys and heart. Not a pretty picture!      Image Credit Not only that, but it will be epically painful for the afflicted cat, as the exposed pulp is rich in nerve endings.   Your vet will likely take dental radiographs with your cat under anesthesia to determine the extent of the problem. Depending on the injury, treatment may involve creating crowns for the tooth, a root canal, or complete removal. A diet of soft food will likely also be recommended.    Feature Image Credit

The doggy paddle comes instinctually to dogs, but that doesn’t mean that a bit of canine swim school isn’t helpful for pooches interacting with water for the first time.   Image Credit   Some breeds such as the golden retriever and Portuguese water dog take to water like ducks, but for many dogs, just as with children learning to swim, a pool or the surf can seem a frightening prospect at first. But with a bit of help from their loving owners, most dogs will learn to love water and how to swim like champions.   The first step to creating an aqua dog is getting them to find the prospect of getting their paws wet exciting rather than horrifying. Some pups are keen from the start, which makes things easier, but others aren’t so sure.     Image Credit  We recommend finding a small kiddy pool or using your bathtub and filling it with a little water. Place your dog gently in and praise and treat them copiously so they come to realise wonderful things happen when they are near water. Gradually increase the water level over time so you dog becomes confident even when submersed.   Once your dog is happy with water, swim training can begin. A dog life vest is a great idea which not only will keep your dog safe even when they are skilled swimmers, but will also help them keep buoyant – just like kids with floaties – so they can focus their energies on mastering the paddling movement without the fear of sinking beneath the water. Basset hounds, bulldogs, dachshunds, pugs and corgis are some breeds that really struggle with water sports and really require additional support out of necessity on all their swims.   Image Credit   Depending on the size of your dog, the kiddy pool might be sufficiently deep once filled to be your training zone. All you need to make sure is that your dog’s paws can’t touch the bottom. For larger dogs, you may need to go on a scouting mission to find a small pond or shallow lake. The beach, while exciting, is probably not the best choice as waves can unnerve and unbalance dogs learning swim skills.   To start training, gently coax your dog into the water. Be prepared for them to get a bit of a fright when their feet don’t touch the bottom. Stay calm and praise them for being brave. They may go forwards of their own volition, but if not try getting a treat to place in front of their nose to encourage them to start moving around the water.   Image Credit   Keep training sessions short at first to keep your dog from feeling exhausted or overwhelmed by the new experience. As your dog’s confidence builds, try progressively deeper water and longer swim times – and then even the challenge of waves.   Practice makes perfect – with time, you’ll have a super confident and expert swimmer on your hands! Then it might be time to try doggie surfing?    Image Credit  

Puppies can be hyperactive super-charged balls of fun – but sometimes they can put all that energy into worrying. Here are our tips on how to best calm your little friend down:   1. Ignore your pup until they start acting a little more sensible   Image Credit   It may sound harsh, but if you speak to your puppy every time they jump on you and cry their behaviour is reinforced by your attention. Puppies can even prefer scolding and act out purposefully to attract your gaze rather than suffer being left to themselves. Gently ignoring them when they are too silly for their own good can be the best deterrent for over-rambunctiousness or whining.   To encourage positive behaviour - whenever they are quiet, give them a treat or praise them for being a good dog.   2. Give them a work out   Image Credit Exercise not only improves you puppy’s health, it can also be a great way to use up extra energy and excited nerves. Afterwards your puppy will probably be more than happy to curl up and go to sleep in a nice soft spot in the house.   3. Practice the art of re-direction   Image Credit When your puppy starts worrying, one solution is to distract them with something else you would prefer they focused upon, such as a chew toy, or practice your newest training command.   4. Create a puppy retreat   Image Credit   Does your puppy have somewhere pleasant to relax? Make sure you have a cosy puppy corner a dog would love to spend time in, with a soft bed and some favourite toys. Dogs prefer to be in proximity to their ‘pack’ so place it far enough away they avoid the traffic of the family home, but can still see and hear you.   A ticking clock wrapped in a towel or a sock can be a good addition to a puppy’s bedding as the tick mimics the sound of their mother’s heartbeat and is something they find naturally relaxing. A hot water bottle to keep them warm and remind them of the feeling of being curled up with their brothers and sisters can also be a helpful addition.   5. Establish a strict routine   Image Credit   Like most animals, dogs thrive on predictability. It may sound boring, but a daily schedule that stays about the same can be comforting to dogs young and old. Feeding, exercising and playing in a routine manner can help to calm over-excited and nervous pups.   6. Keep your cool   Image Credit   It is important when trying to get your puppy to relax you set a good example and remain calm and collected no matter what mischief they get up to. If you get frustrated and shout it is more likely to encourage hyperactive behaviour than discourage it. Being calm and consistent with your responses is the way to get the best out of your pup.   Feature Image Credit