Pet Bucket Blog

Cats have a lot of stereotypes surrounding them. They’re considered curious, mischievous, mystical, and even regal. However, everyone is familiar with a feline that’s been characterized as skittish or easily spooked. Cats are very independent creatures, and can sometimes be mistaken for fearful. But there are occasional cases where a cat is genuinely aghast at whatever is going on around it. They are small and fragile, if not somewhat resourceful, creatures. What can be done in such a scenario, where a scaredy cat is unsociable to the point of concern? Today’s post will discuss some different strategies for dealing with a frightened cat, and making it feel more at home in its own skin. Why is my cat scared? There are many reasons why cats develop a fearful disposition. It can be the result of past trauma at the hands of a human or another animal, a disruption in its regular routine, even pain and illness can have an adverse effect on a feline’s mentality. Cats also don’t like continuous loud noises, and cluttered or dirty environments. An overabundance of accompanying animals can cause a lot of stress-related fear. This can be exacerbated if the cat doesn’t get along well with the other animals. Another reason they could have developed new and abnormal signs of fearfulness is being exposed or moved to a new environment to which they’re unaccustomed. Any number of factors could be contributed to a cat’s fearful demeanor, but what you really need to know is what to do about it. How to Give Cats Courage     Cats feel safe in enclosed spaces. Additionally, elevated areas can also seem like a safe haven. To make a scared cat feel more comfortable, set up a covered cave for them to retreat to. Line it with soft bedding and partially cover the entrance so that the cat will feel safely obscured inside. In the same vein of thought, you can purchase a cat tower for the cat to lie on top of. Giving a scared cat a place to hide is a good strategy for making it feel more comfortable, but the eventual goal is to get it to enjoy your company. So you’ll need to interact with the cat. Though because of their finicky nature and fearful disposition, this can be somewhat complicated. You’ll have to go slowly, and let the cat take the lead on interacting. Try to coax it into playing with a toy, fishing pole toys work great for this. It gives you some distance, while still allowing you to interact. You can also frequently feed your feline with its preferred brand of cat treats. This along with regular meal times will go a long way in building the bond between the two of you. Most of the time when dealing with a scared cat they won’t take the treat directly from you, and you’ll have to leave it sitting for them. However, after some time has passed and you’ve built some trust you can try hand-feeding. The trick is to do this incrementally, try watching the cat eat from a distance, and get a little closer each time. If you can patiently follow these guidelines while still giving your cat the space it needs to adjust, and eliminate any of the outlying stress factors that might be causing a fear response in your cat, then you’ll definitely succeed in socializing your scaredy cat into a fearless feline.   

Here’s a frightening thought: your housecat is host to a parasite that can infect you, and in so doing affect your brain function, making you more impulsive, promiscuous, less attentive, less intelligent, and possibly suicidal. Sounds like something straight out of science fiction, but unfortunately this parasite is so pervasive that liberal estimates say that over 8 million Australians could be infected, along with upwards of 60 million Americans. Worldwide estimates of infection range into the billions. The disease is called Toxoplasma, and it starts in rats, goes to cats, and ends up inside your freaking brain, in what seems like a very demented spin on the circle of life. When a rat is infected with Toxoplasmosis it loses all aversion to the scent of cat urine, and in fact, becomes sexually aroused by the smell. It then seeks out areas filled with cat odors, and is predictably and promptly eaten by an unsuspecting feline. Cats are then similarly infected though their behavior remains largely unchanged, a whole laundry list of symptoms has been associated with the disease, including: Laziness Sadness High temperature Sudden reduction in weight Trouble breathing Reduced coordination Seizures Weakness Paralysis Nausea Loose bowels Reduced appetite And inflammation However, the really scary part is how often the disease goes unnoticed because of a lack of these symptoms. Humans can catch the disease by being in close contact with cat feces which is where the ocysts, that is to say the toxoplasmosis progeny, are released after reproduction occurs inside the feline’s intestinal tract. It’s also common to catch the disease when in contact with undercooked foods, and is much more prevalent in countries with a tradition of eating such fare, like Brazil for example, which is estimated to have 67% of its total population infected with the parasite. So I know this is supposed to be a pet blog, and we’re mainly concerned with pet issues here, but are you ready to hear some really scary facts about this parasite’s effects on human behavior? Toxoplasmosis affects the human brain’s fear center, causing a disdain for authority, less adherence to social folkways and mores, an increased risk of schizophrenia, an increased risk of dying in a motorcycle accident, higher rates of suicide among the infected, increased levels of sexual promiscuity among women, and higher frequencies of neuroticism in both sexes. Ironically enough, you’re also more likely to be good at Soccer. This psychotic protozoan is a major health concern for all of the above reasons, and is an excellent reminder to wash your hands after changing your cat litter and always before eating. Diagnosis for the disease is very difficult and not often undergone. It includes measuring t cell count in the blood stream as well as tracking the number of liver enzymes. Treatment is likewise not always recommended as the disease is only serious in patients with weak immune systems. This is true for humans and cats alike. When it is treated, there is a long list of drugs used to do so, but there is more available in the way of prevention than actual treatment. So there’s your daily dose of microscopic horror. Just remember, you’re not always in control of your actions. Sometimes nature plants a scary bodysnatching minute monster inside your brain to help you make stupid decisions.   

One of the most common health problems in domestic cats is that they are especially prone to catching urinary tract infections. While not normally a serious problem in humans, cats can have a rough go of it unless treated in a relatively speedy fashion.  This is because, left untreated, a UTI can eventually spread to the kidneys where it becomes a much more serious difficulty. Luckily enough, while the causes of these infections can often be ambiguous, the symptoms are easily recognizable, and the treatments aren’t too difficult. So let’s spend a bit of time discussing the different facets of each category. Cat Urinary Tract Infection Causes As previously stated, urinary infections in cats often arise unexpectedly. Cats lead some curious and adventurous lives that aren’t always on public display. This can be especially true if they are allowed outside. This being the case, it’s somewhat difficult to know where they might contract any specific disease, particularly one so elusive as a bladder infection.  In general though, UTI’s have been linked to the presence of high levels of bacteria, a variety of different viruses, and stressful situations for the cat. It’s not much to go on, but such are the mysterious ways of kitty cats. Cat Urinary Tract Infection Symptoms While the causes of cat uti’s remain a mystery, uti symptoms in cats couldn’t be clearer. Some of the most common signs of an uncomfortable kitty are as follows: Strain or irritation during urination Blood in urine Frequent urination Difficulty during urination, due to a blockage in the urethra There are a few other things that a physical examination by a veterinarian can point out, but for practical purposes these are the symptoms that you need to look out for. It should be noted that male tom cats will often mark territory indiscriminately and very frequently. This shouldn’t be confused with the need to frequently urinate. Cat Urinary Tract Infection Treatment Assuming there isn’t any blockage in your cat’s urethra, the treatment for this condition will be very straightforward. Simple administration of antibiotics and some conservative dietary measures should do the trick. Wet food will increase the intake of liquid and decrease the occurrence of toxins in your cat’s diet. That way a certain amount of natural flushing will occur. However, if your cat does have a major blockage inside its urinary tract then it will most likely be hospitalized and further measures will need to be exercised. Dietary concerns will again need to be addressed, and in severe situations, the veterinarian may even suggest surgery. Though that is an extreme solution, and certainly not one often employed. Usually, most cats are well again within a week of being treated. As always, severe cases will be the exception to the rule. However, a quick trip to the vet is usually all that’s required to stave off any long-term negative consequences.  After that, it’s a matter of prevention, which will vary significantly case by case. That’s all the helpful pet information for today. Check back for more helpful hints on the Petbucket blog.  

Yesterday’s post gave us a glimpse of the painstaking process behind taming a feral cat. However, as we mentioned this isn’t always the best option for a feral cat. They are basically wild, and that can mean very unsociable. Not only can they be physically hazardous, but pathologically too. Feral cats are known carriers of many dangerous diseases that can infect domesticated cats and humans. Rabies, distemper, feline aids, and Toxoplasmosis are all fairly common in stray or feral populations. So simply being friendly to a family of feral cats and kittens isn’t always going to resolve the situation. You’ll need to catch the cats and have them treated or relocated. Trapping Feral Felines To successfully cat-nab you’ll need to either procure or rent an effective trapping mechanism. You can either purchase one online or rent from your local humane society, animal control shelter, or a veterinary office. Then you’ll have to set the trap up in a high traffic area for the feral feline population, bait it so as to make it more appealing, and finally it’ll be time to sit and wait while the trap is sprung. Here are a few tips to ensure successful feral cat trapping: Be certain that you set up the trap correctly by following any and all directions that come with it.   Cover the bottom of the trap with cardboard or an equally appealing surface for a cat. They find the wire unnatural and uncomfortable. Cover the outside as well. Use a towel to enclose every side but the opening. This will help manage the cat’s stress once caught. There are plenty of different effective types of bait such as tuna, sardines, wet cat food, cat nip, and various sorts of meats. Once you’ve caught the kitty it’s time to decide what to do with it. There are several options. You can try to adopt the cat out, but as we discussed in yesterday’s post, socializing a feral cat is no easy task, and your chances of doing so successfully while the cat is in captivity are very low. The ideal thing to do is TNR. TNR TNR stands for trap, neuter, and release. Before catching your cat, you should schedule a vet appointment. That way you can get the cat in and out as soon as possible, thus minimizing its stress. Once the cat is caught, take it in the following morning, have it fixed, treated for as many diseases as your budget allows, and release it after leaving. Even if you don’t treat the cat for pathogens, it won’t be able to procreate and pass diseases on to its kittens. Animal Shelters: An Unappealing Solution If you decide to take the feral cat into an animal shelter, you should keep in mind that you’ve basically issued a death sentence. There is an abundance of domesticated cats in these shelters, and no room budget for cats with behavioral issues.   That concludes our advice on feral cats. Make sure to come back and visit the Petbucket blog for more helpful advice on various animal issues.  

Feral cats and kittens are an interesting dilemma. They capture our hearts and imaginations, and just leaving feral felines, even particularly unsociable ones, to the elements doesn’t sit well in the cat lover’s conscience. So what to do? Can you tame a feral cat? Let’s take a deeper look into this question, and some possible solutions to the feral cat conundrum. What are Feral Cats? First off, a feral cat is not domesticated. They don’t like people. They're distrustful of them, and will hiss and spit at their approach. Or just look to avoid human contact entirely. Feral cats shouldn’t be confused with stray cats. Strays are domesticated cats that have been abandoned, or have run away. These may still be skittish, but ultimately they are much more open to human contact than their feral cousins. Taming Feral Cats As a rule, taming feral cats is very difficult, if not impossible. This isn’t always the best solution. However, there have been recorded cases of successful domestications.   It is a long process that takes plenty of pet know-how, and even more patience. However, if you’re willing to take on the odds then you should follow this basic procedure: Leave out some food, and give them plenty of space. Cat’s respond to food and it usually is the number one builder of trust.   Be patient. This bond you’re trying to build may take weeks, months, or years to manifest. Never approach the cat. Let it come to you. It has to be the one to take the initiative. Just speak sweetly and leave the food bowl out, then go back to your house. Set a routine with feeding, and stick to it. Cats are creatures of habit. If they know food is coming at regular intervals, they’ll make sure to be on time. Also make a signal noise to indicate feeding time. You could whistle, call out “dinner time!” or something to that effect. After some time has passed, a few months perhaps, try sitting outside while they eat. It might not work at first, or at all, but this is the logical next step. Just don’t look at the cat while you’re outside with it. It’ll feel threatened. Eventually, if the cat accepts your presence during meals, it may want to check you out. Don’t try to pet it, or even move toward it. Resist the urge to pet. Leave your hand dangling, and it might start rubbing against that. Just be patient and allow the cat to take the initiative. Take things slow, and in due course, you may make a friend out of the feral feline. Always be wary of bites and scratches, and remember to move in a patient and sequential manner. If this intricate animal whispering process doesn’t sound ideal, then you will have to look for other options. Join us again tomorrow for part 2 of this post, and we’ll examine these other options together.  

Whenever you first take your dog to the vet one of the initial tests and vaccinations your furry friend will receive is for the parvovirus. What is parvovirus?  Well, the relatively recent advent of the dangerous virus known colloquially as parvo has decimated dog populations throughout the world. The terrible disease attacks the digestive systems of, not just dogs, but all canids, and occasionally cats as well. Related strains have even been found in human beings. It’s a deadly disease with a lot of ugly implications, especially parvo in puppies. So for your animal’s protection, and your peace of mind, let’s look a little deeper into the nature of this disease. How Dogs Catch Parvo: Parvo in dogs can occur in a number of ways. How dogs catch parvo is usually by ingesting or coming into close contact with the feces of another infected animal. However, it can also be caught by licking anything the infected fecal matter has come into contact with. That means if you step in dog mess, and your dog chews a shoe it could be a very costly vet bill for an unvaccinated pup. Parvo Symptoms: This is where things begin to get really nasty. As soon as your dog shows any of the following symptoms it’s already past time to get to the vet’s office. Depression Vomiting Chronic diarrhea Mucous or blood within the diarrhea A high fever Severe abdominal pain A withdrawn belly due to the abdominal pain Dehydration Not all of these symptoms will always be prevalent, but if you see one or more in quick succession, you might be in for a rough time. So bundle up the pup and head to the local vet, it’s gonna be a bumpy ride. Parvo Treatment: Treatment for parvovirus is pretty serious business. First of all it’s almost  always going to require your dog’s hospitalization. They will most likely need    intravenous fluids and medications to correct the dehydration and  the constant vomiting/diarrhea. In the worst cases, your dog might need a blood transfusion. A plasma transfusion, more specifically. During the time it takes to eliminate the vomiting and diarrhea, the dog won’t be allowed to eat or drink, relying instead on the fluids provided by the veterinarian. This process can take up to 5 days, and as such is very tasking on the dog.  They will also be taking antibiotics to stem the flow of infections caused by the viral onslaught. Parvo Vaccinations: With all of the various complications, terrible consequences, and cutthroat  nature of the parvovirus so apparent, the obvious solution is to have your dog  vaccinated against the disease before it ever becomes a problem. Luckily, it is par for the course in any young puppy’s first  veterinary visit. It’s even a known procedure to revaccinate an expecting mother to boost the puppies’ immune systems in vitro. Overall, parvovirus is one of the more threatening diseases a young pup can face in its burgeoning new life. So stay aware, keep your dog protected, and as always stay informed with the helpful tips and advice from the Petbucket blog. 

Dogs are known for soft stomachs and cats are always coughing up hair balls, so what’s an owner to do? First things first, you have to understand that this is a very common problem to be dealing with, and it doesn’t necessarily mean that your pet is violently ill. Let’s take a look at some of the finer points of this complex issue. Differentiating Between Vomiting and Regurgitation A common mistake people make is assuming that all their pet’s mouth expulsions are created equal. In fact, there are two distinct types of digestive deportations. Namely: vomiting and regurgitation.  Vomit is evacuated food that originates from within the stomach. It is acidic and chunky. It’s usually indicative of a more serious problem. Regurgitation comes from the esophagus, and is much more common. It is usually a foamy and white mucous substance that doesn’t require much effort for a dog or cat to expel. Causes of Vomiting There are a lot of causes of vomiting. Everything from serious conditions, like pancreatitis or kidney failure, to the obscure, like Addison’s disease or Pyometra, on down to the mostly benign, like eating garbage or table scraps. In any case, if your dog or cat is vomiting frequently, the best course of action is to schedule an appointment with your veterinarian as soon as possible. However, if your pet has had no previous health issues and the vomiting events are isolated, it’s probably something you can manage by close observation and dietary discretion. If you’re really concerned, bring it up to your vet at the next scheduled checkup, but don’t lose sleep over it. Causes of Regurgitation As previously mentioned, regurgitation is a much less worrying form of animal ailment. Regurgitation in dogs or cats occurs because of a blockage in the esophagus. Food, fur, debris, and what have you all end up caught in a pet’s throat. Once the blockage becomes intolerable, the animal effortlessly expels the nastiness on top of your favorite rug, or possibly your shoes. Either way, it’s a nasty mess, but not so nasty nor so dangerous as the dog or cat vomiting already described. Treatment Treatment for pet vomiting/ regurgitation can vary wildly. In nearly all cases, the best thing you can do is keep a diligent eye on your pet to see if the throw up  was a one-time thing, or a recurring digestive anomaly.  Once you’ve got a good idea of how your dog’s stomach troubles come about, you can report to your vet. In many cases the vet will offer a variety of solutions such as: Diet change Antibiotics Intravenous fluids Deworming medication These are only a few of the possible treatments your dog or cat could receive for a soft stomach. When dealing with pet vomiting and regurgitation it’s important to remember how varied the causes and treatments can be. It’s not a one size fits all problem and there are no magic all-encompassing solutions. Keep a watchful eye and a positive attitude, and as always check back here on the Petbucket blog for more helpful tips and advice.    

Image Credit Pet owners everywhere are up to their eyeballs in dog or cat fur during the hot summer months. Why do cats and dogs shed so much fur? What causes it, and is there any way to slow down the animal shedding onslaught? Today’s topic concerns finding the answers to these questions and explaining the most practical and applicable solutions for pet owners the world over. First off, we need to find out what causes these massive waves of hair loss. As it turns out, it can be a lot of different factors. The main things to consider are the growth phases. Most dogs and cats will begin growing new coats during the spring and fall seasons. That’s because the change in length of the days activates chemical signals in their brains. When the days get longer, the new coat needs to be thinner and shorter. Alternatively, when the days get shorter, the new coat’s got to be  thicker and longer. This is a natural adaptation that allows these animals to  better tolerate the seasonal temperature extremes. This seasonal effect will still be present, but far less pronounced in an exclusively indoor pet. Other things that can cause shedding are damaged hair, stress, and lifestyle. Damaged or broken hair has to be replaced, and just like a human being can go grey or bald due to stress an animal such as a dog or cat can also experience the same phenomenon. Your pet’s coat is  a reflection of its lifestyle which includes diet. So if the coat is getting thin and dull, you might want to rethink your favorite dog food. So what can be done to prevent tumbleweeds of dog or cat hair from making your home look like it’s been covered in shag? You have to abide by the hair removal standards. Grooming- And lots of it! That means brushing at least once a week, it’s often better to do it daily depending on the breed of animal you’ve got. Bathing is another standard you should add to your routine. Cleaning house- No matter how much hair you get off of a fuzzy friend, they’re always going to have more. Be proactive and consistently vacuum to circumvent the total hairy domination of your dwelling place. Shaving- Not so much of a solution for short haired pets, but if you’ve got a  longhaired shedding dog or cat then a seasonal haircut is one of the biggest favors you can do for your four-legged companion. Protect your assets- Furniture throws, lint rollers, and dryer sheets. Make friends with these items. They’ll keep your possessions as fuzz free as can be expected when sharing space with a furry hurricane. Vet visits- Many hair loss cases are a direct result of poor pet health. Make sure to schedule regular visits to your vet’s office to ensure this isn’t the case. It’s a lot of work keeping a clean house with a longhaired pet, so find the right tools and keep a positive attitude. Otherwise you’ll end up under a mountain of pet pelt. 

We’ve gone through the basics of trimming dog’s nails and how to cut cat nails. Now it’s time go over the final details to make any claw clipping session a successful effort. First, let’s review the commonalities between clipping dog’s nails and cat’s nails. With either pet, you’ll need to get them acclimated to the idea of paw handling before ever attempting to trim those talons. You also can use similar tools for either canine or feline feet. These tools include guillotine, scissor, and plier style clippers.. Finally, for both dogs and cats you’ll need to cut above the quick of the nail or you’ll cause bleeding and pain for the animal in question. Now onto the unknown! When things go wrong while claw clipping, as they are occasionally bound to do, it’s important to have a backup plan. So if you accidentally clip a little too high and notice some blood flow accompanied by an uncomfortable cry from your animal, you’ll need to patch that wound up ASAP. That’s where a little bit of Styptic powder comes in very handy. Styptic powder is an Antihemorrhagic, which is doctor speak for something that stops bleeding. Apply this to the end of the claw, (assuming the animal will stay still enough for you to do so) and any leakage will be put to a stop in short order. If you don’t have any styptic powder, some cornstarch or flour can do in a pinch. The next thing you need to consider is a scenario where your dog or cat absolutely refuses to sit still and allow this process to continue. This can be a real mess. If you can, restrain the pet with your forearms placed firmly over their shoulders and hips. This weighs them down at the joints and makes it more difficult for them to move, however squirming isn’t completely eliminated. If this doesn’t work then you might need to recruit a friend to help hold the animal in place. And if that doesn’t work either , then you have no choice but to take your pet to the veterinarian’s office for assistance. Many vets will offer reasonably priced nail cuts for an unruly pet. In the most extreme circumstances this means putting a pet under anesthesia, but that is a very rare scenario reserved for behaviorally challenged pets who’s claws may end up growing into their own paws. One more thing to consider is what might happen without regular trimmings. In short, if left unchecked dog and cat nails will continue growing in ever shaper curves that will cut into their feet causing painful sores or be more prone to cracking, or tearing off when snagged. Thus cutting dogs claws as well as cats can be a very important preventative measure for their health. That about covers the bulk of the basic information on cutting your pet’s claws. So remember to keep it trim, and always come visit the Pet Bucket blog for helpful tips on pet care. Until next time!

Welcome to part 2 of our series on how to cut your pet’s nails. Today we’ll be discussing the basics of clipping claws on cats. Luckily, if you read yesterday’s post, there’s a lot of overlap in feline and canine nail cutting techniques. However, cats are notoriously less social than dogs are so it might be a bit more difficult if you don’t work extra hard on conditioning your cat for trimming nails. Conditioning your Cat This process works very similarly to the one for dogs. You have to start handling a cat’s paws immediately. They are less likely to sit still for it, and much more likely to give you a painful bite or swat for your trouble. So to avoid a trip to the first aid kit, it would behoove you to wait for an ideal opportunity. Wait until your cat is taking one of its dozen daily naps and softly touch its paw. Most cats can’t stand this, so they’ll either pull away, or walk away. Don’t force the issue. If the cat is finished then let it be. However, every time you get the opportunity this is a process you should repeat. It’s best to combine paw handling with regular petting as well. That way the cat will start to associate their paws being touched with pleasant sensations. Eventually, the cat will become comfortable with you touching its paws. Now’s the time to take it a step further, and inspect the paw. Use your thumb and forefinger to squeeze the cat’s finger joints. This will unsheathe the cat’s claws. You can see from there whether there are any splits or cracks. Those are clear signs it’s time for claw clipping. Claw Clipping Tools Many of the same tools used for trimming nails on dogs can be used for cat claws as well. However, a rotary tool should never be used on a cat, and scissors style clippers should only be used on the dew claw, which tends to grow in a circle because it isn’t ground down while walking or clawing. You can even use a regular pair of human nail clippers. Just make sure to be extra cautious. Quick Tips If you think your dog was upset when you accidentally trimmed too far, you’ll be shocked at the cat’s reaction. They’ll never forgive you. Cat quicks are easy to avoid because of their lightly colored claws. You can clearly see the pink hued quick within. If you have an especially squirmy kitty, have a friend hold it still while you’re claw clipping. Otherwise place your forearms firmly over the cat’s shoulders and hips to hold it in place while you’re trimming. Finishing Touches You’ll find it easier to clip more than one claw at a time in most cases, so fit as many claws beyond the cutting line as possible, make sure you aren’t beyond the quick, and make a surgical strike. It’s also best to keep nail trimming on a schedule. Once every 10 to 14 days is good. And never ever try to cut cat nails when the animal is agitated. It won’t go well. That’s all for today’s post. Check back again tomorrow for our final summation on animal claw clipping!