It's a shame how many loving, friendly and well trained dogs get passed up at animal shelters in favour of undeniably cute puppies. While all dogs that find themselves in animal shelters deserve to find a forever home, the reality is many adult dogs get left behind, even though there are so many benefits to adopting a mature dog! Many adult dogs are already housetrained and have mastered basic obedience, so quite often you can skip past these stages and get on with enjoying your new companion. But what about when the adult dog you've adopted has behavioural issues? The reality is, there is always going to be a period of adjustment for you and especially for your dog. You may or may not experience these common behavioural problems: House soiling Separation anxiety Vocalising Chewing Jumping up Pulling on leash Most shelters do an evaluation and will notify you of any behavioural issues they've come across. It's also a good idea for you to closely observe your pal to see if you can detect anything for yourself. Anything you do notice is likely to be replicated at home - but don't let that put you off! Your soon-to-be dog has possibly been untrained and so the experience would be no different to adopting a puppy. Some adopters of adult dogs experience a honeymoon period, whereby it would appear that they've adopted the perfect pooch until days or weeks later, undesirable behaviour makes itself known. It may be because they finally feel comfortable in their new home, are testing boundaries or stress from life with their previous owner has subsided, revealing their true nature. In the first instance, take your new dog to the vet to rule out any unknown medical conditions that may be the cause of these behavioural issues. If nothing has been found, you can start training them yourself or you can seek out obedience classes or a trainer to help curb their behaviour. Remember, most problems are solvable with plenty of love and patience. In the first few days in their new home, dogs may express the following normal behaviour: Lack of appetite Wariness Hiding in various places Timid body language It's your job to make your new dog feel safe and comfortable as soon as possible to help rid them of any feelings of anxiety. It also helps them to reveal their true selves, which is important for you too. Dog proof a room that they will be comfortable in or place a dog bed (with toys) in a spot where they can see you and your family but is still a distance away. Be slow and consistent in your attention and affection towards your dog. If you are too full on to begin with it will set up an unhealthy precedent and could lead to separation anxiety. Maintain your usual routine so your dog becomes used to their new surrounds and life quicker. Serve their meals somewhere calm and quiet. Make plenty of time for regular exercise and playtime, which are crucial to your dog's happiness and wellbeing. Make sure they receive lots of socialisation and appropriate training And never, ever physically punish your dog. Feature image credit

Pets often enjoy ‘supplementing’ their diet with things they find in the backyard. Cats have been known to taste-test slugs, with their owners asking afterwards if they need be worried if their feline’s unusual predilection for the slimy creatures presents a health risk.   Slugs in themselves do not pose a significant problem to cat’s digestive system – insects and the like are a natural part of the feline diet. Though slugs are non-toxic, the mucous they produce may cause your cat to drool or vomit. Diligent gardeners eager to deter slugs from their gardens may create the slimy creatures are a far greater threat to cats than they would normally be. Poisons absorbed by a slug before it is eaten may present a health hazard to a cat misfortunate enough to have eaten it. Depending on the slug-deterrent used, one slug is unlikely to cause terrible results. Yet a cat who eats poisoned slugs as a habit may be in significant danger as the toxins build up in their system.   Symptoms of poisoning include: Agitation Drooling Muscle tremors and seizures Racing heart rate Heightened temperature   Lungworm is another problem that can occur as a result of slug ingestion. Slugs and snails are regularly infested by the parasitical lungworm. If a cat eats an infected slug, they too can become hosts. Lungworms cause difficulty with breathing through damaging the airways and interfering with mucus accumulation in the lung tissue, with possibly fatal consequences. Lungworm vaccinations exist for cats and dogs to provide protection against this issue.   Keeping you cat indoors, especially just after rain when slugs emerge en masse to roam the garden, is essentially the only sure way to keep a predisposed cat from slug-eating.    Feature Image Credit  

Cats, like middle-aged men, can suffer from baldness. Thankfully, the condition is normally treatable depending on the source of the problem.   Motivated by stress or other psychological issues, some cats can ‘re-style’ their own hair by obsessive over-grooming. Known as ‘psychogenic alopecia’, hair loss in these cases usually starts on the abdomen, progresses to the backs of the thighs and then reaches the back – essentially all the places best accessible to a cat’s overenthusiastic tongue and teeth. Some cats have been known to completely divest themselves of their coat in their anxious drive to groom.    Happily, the cat’s lack of fur is usually only a cosmetic issue in these cases, not causing harm to cats in other ways – though, naturally, due to the nature of the negative factors driving psychogenic alopecia, it must be addressed as a matter of priority.   Potential stress triggers are numerous: a cat may be bullied by the other pets you keep in your house, or troubled by the view of a neighbour’s cat out the window which makes it feel its territory is under threat. Boredom is another cause of stress. It may seem like an animal as sleep-loving as a cat would find it difficult to be bored, yet it must be remembered in the wild, felines spend much of their waking time hunting for dinner. Modern day cats, who find their food magically appears in their bowl, miss out on the mental and physical stimulation the act of hunting brings. Like any creature driven, and prevented, from carrying out a task they have evolved to complete, this may cause frustration and malaise.   Enriching the environment with toys and climbing furniture as well as increasing play time is a great way to relieve stress and boredom in affected cats - and makes them spend more time frolicking and less time ripping their hair out! In severe cases, calming medication prescribed by a veterinarian may be required to reduce psychological pressures perceived by a cat – but this is usually only as a last resort.   Psychogenic alopecia is not the only cause of baldness in cats. Flea infestation can cause itchy kitties to madly groom themselves to attempt to relieve their irritation, leading to hair loss. Simple de-flea treatments and over the counter prevention products are the easy solution in cases such as these.   Bladder conditions can also drive a cat to lick their belly, likewise resulting in baldness. If this cause is suspected, tailored veterinary treatment is essential.    Feature Image Credit  

Eczema is a symptom rather than a disease itself. It is a general term applied to the inflammation of the epidermis, or outer layer of skin. The appearance of redness, hair loss, papules, pustules, weeping skin sores, crusting, scaling and dryness are all indicators your dog is suffering from the condition.   Due to its definition as a symptom, eczema has many different potential causes. Inflammation may result from exposure to chemical substances, vegetation, food allergens, dust, humidity and insect bites. It may also be a symptom of infections with viral, bacterial, fungal or yeast-based origins. In other cases, self-trauma, such as repeated licking, bitting, chewing, scratching or rubbing, due to stress or lice or flea infestation is the cause.   Dogs who live predominately outdoors are the most likely to be effected by the condition, which is exacerbated by humidity, adverse weather conditions and seasonal plant growth. Eczema typically strongly effects the areas least protected by a dog’s coat, such as the feet, chin, nose, hocks, stifles and belly.    Diagnosis can be achieved by a quick visual inspection, however treatment of eczema can be difficult due to the range of potential causes. Consultation with a veterinarian can be necessary to isolate the most likely causes. If food allergens are suspected, supervised trials in which food groups are eliminated to see if symptoms subsist are the best way of determining precisely which are the ‘problem’ foods.   Possible parasites causing the issue can be identified through physical examination and skin sampling. Bacterial and fungal culture tests and microscopic examination of hair can also be used to discover organisms that may be responsible for eczema. If the latter is determined as the cause, your vet will usually prescribe specialised medications.   If a dog is self-mutilating and parasites are not a factor, behavioural intervention is necessary. Stress, boredom and loneliness can all result in a dog obsessively licking and causing painful skin irritation. The solutions are increased exercise and socialisation potentially used in conjunction with canine anti-stress medication in severe cases. Until the root cause can be determined and eliminated, reduction of discomfort for an affected dog is the goal. Soothing creams and gels exist tailored to the problem that are non-toxic if the dog licks the area following application, and should be used until the eczema disappears.    Feature Image Credit  

There is much opposition surrounding whether or not your dog should sleep in your bed. Some experts believe not only is it wholly unhealthy for your pooch to sleep with you, but it sends the wrong behavioural messages to them as well. Others, scoff at those accusations and believe having a pooch sleep so close to you is beneficial for both owner and dog. So what are you supposed to do? Fortunately, there is actually no right or wrong answer and the decision comes down to you, your dog, your personal preferences and your unique home situation. As such, no one should tell you that your choice is wrong - because no one is wrong! In America, nearly half of all dog owners allow their dogs to sleep in their bed, including the littlest breeds, right up to the giant of giant dogs. So let's take a look at whether your dog should be in bed with you. Benefits of having your dog in your bed When near their owners, dogs tend to sleep a lot better. Dogs feel like they are bonding and building a closer connection to you, even though you are asleep. This is especially true if you work full-time during the day. Can prevent naughty behaviour, like barking, which can happen if they are left to sleep elsewhere in the house. Owners often feel safer and calmer. Helps dogs feel more part of the family. When not to let your dog sleep in your bed If your dog is unable to control their bladder. If your dog is having joint problems and can't get on and off the bed easily. If you suffer from allergies or asthma - it's even recommended your pet sleep in a different room. If you can't face the idea of having your dog sleep somewhere else, you should consider allergy vaccinations to help build your tolerance. If they disturb your sleep. If you suffer from insomnia and sleep with your pet, that could actually be the cause of your sleeping woes. Your sleep cycle can be disrupted by a dog itching (for example) which can affect your mood and responsiveness the next day and even lower your immunity. This is especially true for children or those with autoimmune issues. If your dog has aggressive tendencies. If your dog has naughty tendencies or is still a puppy - it is probably better they sleep in a crate. Many people worry that by allowing a dog to sleep on their bed, they are allowing them to ascend to the top of the pack! While, yes, there will be some dogs who express this form of behaviour, most dogs just want to be close to their owners, and actually, you should take it as a wonderful compliment, because dogs only ever sleep with people and animals they trust. As long as up until this point, you've always expressed clear dominance in your relationship and your dog realises that they must be 'invited' into the bed, you should have no problems at all. However, your choice to allow your dog on the bed must be one you are sure about. Suddenly asking your dog to no longer sleep in your bed after many months or years will be a real shock to them, and hard for you to train. If you decide to no longer allow your dog onto your bed, you will have to make the floor more enticing with lots of treats and praise when they are off the bed. Never give them attention when they are on your bed. It may take some time, but it can be rectified. Feature image credit

Introducing your cat or kitten to a cat flap can be a very perplexing experience for them, and for you. But it doesn't have to be this way! Some cats will need no training on how to use a flap, however, for many cats that is not the case - so your intervention will be required. There are a variety of approaches you can try in order to teach your cat the beauty of using their very own door, where the world becomes their oyster! And once they know how, they'll be ever so happy they learnt! There is no right or wrong way to teach your cat how to use a cat flap, but the following offers some great advice and ideas on how to achieve a kitty that walks in and out of their cat flap with ease… To begin, you can either introduce your cat to the flap with it either already into position or just by holding it somewhere else in your house your cat feels comfortable. Generally the best thing to do is to start with the flap completely open. At this point you just want your cat to get used to the door and the idea of going through it. You can either tape the door open, hold it open with your hands, or ask someone to hold it for you. Next, you need to encourage your cat to go through the door and show them that it is a positive experience. You can do this by placing treats or hovering their favourite toys by the opening so they are likely to approach it and investigate. If they successfully approach the door, don't forget to let them eat the treat or have a play as a reward. This includes any form of interest, even if it's just a polite sniff! Now you are ready to teach your cat to go through the door. At this point, keep the flap completely open. You can place some treats or toys on the other side of the door to encourage your cat to step through. Alternatively, you can 'box' your cat in, making going through the door their only option. Otherwise, you can try and toss treats through the opening and wave toys in and out of the opening to entice your kitty through. Remember any progress should be rewarded! Once your cat has mastered going through the door, you will need to teach them to come back through. This would be a good time to now have the cat flap in its desired position. Surprisingly, many cats can get through the door fine, especially when it leads to the garden, but getting them to come back inside can be a challenge. Stand with your cat outside and make sure you get their attention. Make sure they watch you as your push more treats or toys through the door on to the floor on the other side. Otherwise it is a good idea to teach your cat the 'recall' command so once they have gone through the door you can call them to come back through it. Once your cat has mastered going in and out of the door, you can move onto the next stage, where you begin to lower the door, little by little - always praising your cat for positive attempts until the flap is completely closed. Hopefully at this stage, your cat won't have any trouble and will be able to figure out a method that's best for them to manoeuvre opening the flap. If your cat is struggling with a flap that is completely closed you could keep a tiny bit of it open so they are able to see an opening. If you have a bit of a fusspot, who knows how to open the door, but just doesn't want to - you will have to learn to walk away from the door and your wailing cat. It may be difficult at first, but they will soon realise they won't be rewarded for being lazy! Another great tip is to get your cat used to the sound of the flap opening and closing, which can bother some sensitive cats. Remember to reward them anytime they remain happy and unmoved by the sound of the flap. Hopefully by then you'll have a kitty who loves using their cat flap and the freedom that comes with it. Feature image credit  

Asthma is not an ailment limited to humans - even your cat cat suffer from this chronic condition. If your cat is asthmatic or has recently been diagnosed as such, getting them to take their medication can be a difficult but necessary ordeal. Asthma is the the build-up of excess mucous and inflammation of the airways. Muscles spasms constrict the airways which also contributes to respiratory distress. If your cat is diagnosed with asthma by a vet, they may be prescribed medications like corticosteroids or bronchiodilators. You may even choose to combine traditional medicines with accompanying holistic therapies. However if your cat has severe asthma, they will more than likely be required to use a nebuliser. A nebuliser is a device that administers medicine in the form of an aerosolised mist which is then inhaled into the lungs, delivering relief. Nebulisers are used not only to treat asthma but other respiratory conditions like pneumonia and bronchitis, where they administer antibiotics and other medications. Nebulisers are the most effective way to deliver quick relief to constricted airways. Nebulisers generally come in two forms: a tabletop or portable version. Tabletop nebulisers have to be plugged into a power point and are quite large and bulky but are less expensive than portable versions. A portable nebuliser requires batteries and is hand-held. They are popular because you can keep them with you at all times, which is reassuring in case of emergencies. Your cat's personality will determine which way to give them their nebuliser is going to be best:   If you have a nervous cat… If your cat is a real scaredy cat then a good idea is to place them in a cage or crate along with the nebuliser and place a towel over it to create a chamber. Alternatively, you can do the same thing by placing your kitty inside a small room, like the laundry or bathroom. Be aware though, you can loose a lot of medicine, and therefore money this way because not all of the medicine will make its way into your cat's lungs. If you have a relaxed kitty... Lucky you! If your cat is more than happy with be manhandled then you will be able to try these more effective methods: Hold the mouthpiece of the nebuliser close to your pet's mouth and nose and they will be able to inhale most (but not all) of the medicine. By far, the most effective way is to purchase a soft, paediatric nebuliser mask and place if over your cat's mouth and nose. This way all of the medicine enters your cats lungs and provides the most benefits and relief. Keep in mind that you should always first speak to your vet to check how much medication should be given per dose. If you are generally having a nightmare each time you try to give your cat their much needed medication, try these tips and tricks for a more calm and effective experience: Remain calm at all times: your cat will easily pick up on any nervous energy and tension and will quickly associate taking their nebuliser as a negative experience. Set up a regular routine so your cat will quickly become accustomed to the idea of taking their nebuliser. Try to do it at the same time of the day or after a particular activity. Speak calmly to your pet and about the nebuliser and give a couple of reassuring pats on the head. After each successful attempt at taking the nebuliser, remember to reward your pet so positive associations quickly develop. If you are using a nebuliser mask, you could put a little bit of food inside it to coax your pet to put their face in to it (and provide a small distraction). Once you've given the treatment, allow your cat some space to calm down - but don't forget to reward them!

Cat owners will attest that their felines have some pretty fascinating habits and behaviours, with some that are easily explained while others, just aren't. One such curious behaviour you may have noticed is your cat digging in their food or water bowl. If this sounds like your cat then read on to decipher this unusual habit... Unfortunately, there isn't one clear cut answer to this strange habit, but the good news is that it doesn't denote anything serious. Instead, there are a few reliable and plausible theories, any of which could apply to your cat. Ultimately, it is not urgent for you to do something about it, but if you find this behaviour annoying or messy then you can look into ways of reducing it, again depending on what the cause is. Let's look at the possible reasons now: 1. Change in diet Have you recently changed your cat's diet from dry to wet or the other way round? If you have, it could be your cat's way of telling you they don't like the change and would prefer to be fed something else. They're not known for being fussy for no reason! If you can detect a particular food or flavour that is causing more digging then you should consider removing that flavour from the menu. 2. Instinctual behaviour Your cat's digging could simply be a genetic instinct shared with their big cat relatives. Wild cats tend to bury their food, either to save it for later or to protect it from being eaten by others as well as to deter predators. So perhaps your domestic kitty is simply mimicking what only comes naturally. This is particularly prominent in cats that were stray or feral who inherently learn to be more protective. 3. Age If your cat is still only young, they may be practicing this behaviour out of insecurity. Is there another cat or animal in the home? They may be feeling a bit anxious or feel that their food supply is threatened. Once they feel more comfortable in their surroundings and feel convinced their food is not about to be stolen away, then the behaviour should stop. You could try and keep your cat's food bowl in a room on its own where it won't be disturbed by other members of the house. 4. Location Cats are incredibly clean creatures and really dislike their food bowl near their littler box. If this is your current set-up then perhaps your cat's digging is caused by an instinctual disgust of having to eat near their poop. If you have the room, move the little box to another location and see if this stops the digging. 5. Cleanliness Following on, your cat may be digging around in their food or water bowl if they feel like the bowls themselves are not clean enough. Make sure your cat's dishes are cleaned well everyday and perhaps the digging will cease. 6. Size and type of bowl What sort of bowl do you feed your cat from? Perhaps its size and shape is contributing to your cat's digging? Generally, cat's do not like their whiskers to touch the side of the bowl as they are very sensitive, this is especially the case for cats with very long whiskers. Narrow, oval or bowls with low sides are most suitable to prevent food or water going everywhere. 7. Eyesight This is most relevant to water bowls. Cats are short sighted and are unable to see well, making it hard for them to judge where exactly the water is in their bowl. They will use their paws to create ripples making it easier to see the water. If you use a glass or metal bowl, this perpetuates the issue further, so make a switch to a ceramic bowl or one that is patterned. Alternatively, your could consider investing in a water fountain. They particularly appeal to cats as they love drinking from outside water sources. Feature image credit

You may think that once your puppy is toilet trained, for the rest of their life you'll never have to contend with accidents occuring inside your home. Think again. It's not uncommon for adult dogs to begin soiling inside the home for seemingly no apparent reason. However, there is generally always a medical or behavioural reason and as a doggy parent, it's up to you to investigate and find out why. Where in the house your dog innappropriately uses the toilet can give you an insight to a possible cause, but first and foremost, you should take your dog to the vet to rule out any medical causes. Medical reasons for indoor soiling include: Gastrointestinal upset Change in diet Incontinence caused by an unknown medical problem. Reaction to a particular medication. Age-related incontinence/cognitive dysfunction. If your vet rules out any medical causes for this sudden onset of indoor toilet use, then it may indeed be caused by a behavioural problem. Behavioural reasons for indoor soiling include: Lack of house training Incomplete house training Breakdown in house training A surface preference Anxiety Fear of going outside Dislike of cold or rainy conditions Urine marking Separation anxiety Submissive/excitement urination Treating indoor elimination, totally depends on what the cause is. Only once you know the root cause will you be able to successfully stop the troubled toilet times. However there are some general tips you can adopt to help the situation. General useful tips Have a consistent feeding schedule and don't leave food out between meals. Take your dog outside frequently, particularly first thing in the morning and last thing at night. Adult dogs should be taken outside at least four times a day. Be aware of where your dog is at all times. When you take your dog outside to go to the toilet, stay with them and reward them each time they eliminate outside so positive associations can be made. Don'ts for toilet training Never punish your dog for going to the toilet in inappropriate places or rub their noses in it. If you see your dog going to the toilet, make noises to stop them and take them outside straightaway. Once they have used the toilet outside, praise them and reward them for doing so. Never physically punish your dog. Avoid cleaning up using ammonia. Urine also contains ammonia so it may only encourage your dog to urinate there again. Instead, use a cleaning product specifically for pets. Never punish your dog without attempting to train them to correct their behaviour. Accept that if your don't catch your dog in the act of going to the toilet there is nothing you can do. Punishing them after they have already done it, is not going to improve their chances or correcting their behaviour.

Just like humans, some dogs are more energetic than others. Perhaps your own dog is one of these pooches with seemingly endless energy and enthusiasm. You may even call your dog hyperactive. It may even drive you a little crazy at times and that's understandable. But is your dog truly hyperactive, or are they just high-energy? While at first, it may seem that these two terms are mutually exclusive, they in fact mean two very different things and require different remedies to help ease the situation and make your energetic dog more calm. What is Hyperactivity? Essentially the dog version of Attention Deficit Hyper-Activity Disorder (ADHD), hyperactivity is also known as hyperkinesis. Symptoms of hyperactivity include: Frantic activity Extremely short attention span Extremely impulsive High degree of attention seeking behaviour Unable to focus on a single task Distracted very easily Sensitive to sudden changes Overreacting to the presence of a new person or other animal Struggle to adjust to new stimulus Struggle with repetitive tasks Become bored very easily Destructive Emotionally unstable Cannot handle being physically restrained If your dog displays some of these symptoms there may be a chance that they are hyperactive. Just like humans with ADHD, your dog may benefit from taking stimulants to help them focus and pay attention. Speak to your vet about your options. High-energy dogs Unlike hyperactive dogs, high-energy pooches are excellent at quickly focusing on a single task and this is a great way of knowing whether your dog is hyperactive or just high-energy. High-energy dogs, while they can be unruly, are able to control their behaviour once they have been properly taught. Sporting and hunting breeds of dogs have a genetic predisposition to being high-energy. Other reasons for high-energy in dogs include: Lack of proper exercise Lack of socialisation Owners not meeting their particular breed of dog's needs or understanding their behaviour Poor breeding and socialisation as a puppy Lack of training and obedience. How to help a high-energy dog Provide more training Play interactive games Teach new tricks Provide more exercise Rotate their toys Increase their socialisation by introducing them to new people, places and other dogs Introduce a more structured routine