Pet Bucket Blog

With the all knowledge of skin cancer and the dangers of malignant lumps, it's not surprising that any new or unusual growth on your pet’s skin causes concern. However, skin tags are quite common, particularly in older pets, and are generally nothing to worry about.   What are skin tags ? Skin tags are the result of excessive growth of skin cells and will be the same colour as your pet’s skin. Tags can grow anywhere on your pet’s body including eyelids and ears and are usually found in areas where the skin folds. Skin tags are soft, felshy and malleable (unlike warts that are hard) but can be flat, rounded, teardrop or stalk-like in shape. Tags are generally only a few millimetres in length but can grow to the size of a grape. These large tags are more likely to get bumped, pinched or crushed and cause discomfort. Usually once a skin tag is seen, it indicates that others will be present on your pet's body or will develop.   As mentioned, skin tags are very common, and can form in any breed. The exact causes of skin tags are yet to be determined, it is believed that hereditary, environment, infections, immune system weakness and allergies influence their growth.   Whilst skin tags are harmless and non-cancerous (benign), they are commonly mistaken as skin cancer growths and should always be examined by a vet who my need to perform a biopsy to identify if the growth is malignant. Most skin tags won’t need removing unless they are causing your pet discomfort, become irritated or infected. Vet’s can easily perform a removal procedure which is non-invasive and quick involving cauterization or freezing. The skin tags will simply fall off after treatment.   It’s important to regularly check you pet’s skin The sooner you notice any growths or changes, the better the chances of early diagnosis and recovery.   When to see a vet It’s advisable to consult your vet with any growth to determine whether the growth is a harmless skin tag or more serious. Early diagnosis and treatment are vital to the successful prevention of tumours and cancers spreading. Schedule a consultation with you vet immediately for any of the following:   Skin tags that bleed or become infected If there is pain and irritation in the affected area Growths that bleed or resemble wounds and do not heal Dark or black growths, pale or pink growths that are not the colour of your pet's skin Any growths around you pet’s mouth or lips as these can interfere with swallowing or even develop into cancer Any growths or tags that change shape, size, colour or appearance   Feature image credit

Cats, like people, can start shaking to keep warm. There might be a problem however if your cat seems to shiver and tremble all the time without any apparent reason.   1. Hypoglycemia   Lowered blood sugar, or hypoglycaemia, is a common cause of shaking in cats. It generally occurs, like in humans, when a cat hasn’t eaten for some time. By feeding them dinner or a treat, their blood sugar levels should raise and shaking desist.   Low blood sugar levels can also result when a cat is suffering from digestive problems like vomiting, diarrhoea or constipation. Encouraging the cat to eat in such a case is also the solution.   If a cat refuses to eat, out of fussiness or because they feel ill, placing a drop of honey in their mouth (no more than a tablespoon) can quickly elevate blood sugar levels and restore them to appropriate levels.   2. Hyperthermia   A cat with an advanced infection suffering a high fever may start shaking due to ‘chills’. It is a good idea for cat owners to keep a thermometer on hand to test their cat if they suspect illness. A temperature above 103.5 degrees Fahrenheit indicates a fever and that a trip to the vet is due.   3. Hypothermia   Just as a heightened internal temperature can cause shaking in a cat, so too can a lowered internal temperature result in shivering. Healthy adult cats can usually regulate normal temperature levels internally, however young and old cats may struggle. Warm blankets and heating pads in cold weather can help vulnerable cats to keep cosy.   4. Pain   Cats seldom express much openly when they are in pain – yet shaking may be a sign they are suffering due to an injury or illness. If you suspect this may be the case, take your cat to receive medical attention immediately.   5. Stress   A stressed or anxious cat may start shaking uncontrollably due to a nervous outburst. Cats are sensitive animals and it can be difficult to discover what exactly is troubling them. Changes in the environment, no matter how innocuous they seem to us, can spark distress in cats who thrive on predictability. New furniture, the sight of another cat prowling the neighbourhood it can see out the window or sounds from the building site next door can all cause a cat to become unhappy and shake with distress.   If you are able to remove the object that is upsetting your cat, try to do so. If it is something like a new sofa you are attached to, or outside your control such as neighbourhood noise, try providing other comforting items to help you cat adapt to the changes that are upsetting it. More hidey-hole beds around the house and perches to sit on are great at relieving cat stress, as felines feel naturally safer when up high or able to hide in a dark space away from ‘danger’.   As always, we recommend consultation with a veterinarian to rule out serious underlying conditions first to make sure your pet receives the perfect treatment for their problem.    Feature Image Credit

A large percentage of cat owners have more than one cat. This can complicate things in terms of food, especially if one of your cats is on a diet. Here are some tips to make controlling food intake in a multi-cat home a bit easier: 1. No more free-choice feeding. This method of feeding is fine if you have only one cat, but in a multi-cat home it keeps you from being able to monitor each cat’s food intake. Although free-choice feeding is convenient, switching to a scheduled meal feeding method instead will be beneficial to your cat that’s on a diet. 2. Designate feeding stations. If possible, take advantage of the multiple rooms in your home by isolating the cat on a diet. Ideally these rooms should have doors. When it’s meal time, separate this cat from the others and give them their allotted food. Allow 20-30 minutes for them to finish and then remove their bowl.  If you don’t have separate rooms, consider feeding the slimmer cat on a surface the overweight cat is unable to jump on to, such as a counter or shelf. Others have also recommended using the cat carrier as a safe and secure feeding station for your cat. If completely isolating your cats is impossible, try to feed them as far away from each other as possible and keep a watchful eye. Monitoring your cats will allow you to make sure that each cat is eating from their own bowl. Note: Water bowls should be available to all cats at all times throughout the day. 3. Make it a routine. If you want to succeed with meal feeding, it’s best that you stick to a schedule. Cats like routine, and will quickly learn that they have 20-30 minutes to eat in their designated feeding station. With feeding stations, a strict schedule, and/or meal monitoring, you can ensure that your cats are always eating their own food, and hopefully start to see results in your overweight cat. As always, talk to your veterinarian to find out what feeding schedule will meet each of your cat's individual needs. image credit  

The thought of giving a dog a bath can strike fear even in the bravest of people. And dogs are even less thrilled. However bath time is an important factor in your dog's overall health and wellbeing, promoting hygiene and cleanliness. And you benefit too because no one like a smelly dog hanging around. If you are having a real problem getting your dog to even set foot in the bathroom, you may need to slate bath time for a later date to first teach your dog to love getting in and out of the bath. For a good few days you can try and stash your pet's favourite treats or toys in the bath. Also, you can turn the bath into a fun game by throwing treats into the tub and watch your dog hop in afterwards to retrieve them. Remember to reinforce positive associations by giving extra treats whilst they are standing in the bath. If you do this a few times, a couple times a week your dog is going to LOVE going in the bath. This is also a good time to get them used to the water and sounds that go along with bath time. Get them used to the running tap, starting at a trickle. Use a damp hand to run over their body and remember to treat them for putting up with it! Remember to always have a non-slip mat inside and even on the floor of the bathroom. At this point it's also worth a mention, that if you're not up to the challenge yourself, or don't like the though of your house getting completely soaked then you may need to call in a professional groomer to take care of this task. You'll need: Clothes you are willing to get dirty Shampoo Conditioner Brush Mineral oil / eye moisturising ointment Cotton balls (for floppy ears) 2 x big absorbent towels Treats Non-skid mat Bowl or large cup (in lieu of a detachable shower head) How to give your dog a stress free bath Bring all your materials into the bathroom ready for the bath. Make sure everything is close to hand. Remember to check with your veterinarian what shampoos and conditioner (if required) is going to be best for your dog. Trim your dog's nails before bath time. It will protect you and allow your dog to get a better grip on the bath. Make sure you close the door behind you because you really don't want to deal with an escapee. Remember to praise your dog for entering the bathroom - don't attempt to get them in the bath just yet! Give your dog a good brush to get rid of any excess hair and fur. Use cotton balls for each ear to keep the water out and use mineral oil (or similar) to help protect their eyes. If you have a big dog, it is probably best to enlist a second pair of hands to help you out. Start running the bath. Make sure the temperature is a nice even one - not too hot or cold! Get your dog to now get in the bath and remember to treat them for getting to this crucial stage. Starting at the shoulders and moving out, begin to massage in the shampoo. Be extra cautious near the face and other sensitive areas. Massage deeply because you want to make sure you reach the undercoat. Rinse all the shampoo using your detachable shower head or a bowl, and use your fingers to make sure all the soap has been rinsed out, along with any residue which could cause irritation. Apply conditioner if it is required. Don't forget to read the instructions as some conditioners require you to leave it in for a few minutes, but try your best to find a fast-acting one - your dog is bound to become restless during this time! Now the bath is finished, thoroughly towel dry your dog, getting as much of the water off as possible. If your dog has a long coat, you could use a hairdryer on a low setting. Give your dog a nice big brush. Open the door and watch them go mad! Not so bad after all! Tips: Never use human shampoo - only ever shampoos made for dogs. Use less shampoo than you need and rinse more than you think you should. Only some dogs need conditioner so check to see if your dog is one of them. You don't really need to wash your dogs face, so you can avoid the area. If you insist, opt for a tearless shampoo. Nails are soft after being in warm water, so you may choose to instead clip your dogs after bath time - at your own risk of course! Schedule bath time before something that your dog loves such as play time or dinner. Make sure your body language and voice is calm and positive. Start bath time practices as young as possible. In preparation for bath time, get your dog used to being handled all over so it won't be such a shock later on. Don't call your dog to the bathroom - they will just learn not to come. If you can carry your dog there or use a leash. You can teach your dog commands like 'get in' and 'get out' so they can get in and out of the bath on cue - especially useful for large dogs. Medium to larger dogs can be bathed in the shower or outdoors in places like a kiddy pool. Small dogs can be bathed in sinks. If your dog absolutely hates baths, only do so when when it's absolutely necessary or use a damp cloth to get rid of dirt. Feature image credit  

Your cat's charming and affectionate antics may delight you during the day, but you probably feel quite differently when your furry friend won't let you get a full night's sleep. Whether your pet paws at your face, stands on your body, bites your toes or screams in your ear, you will wake up feeling profoundly annoyed. Some cats have perfected the art of disturbing an owner's rest, and it can be quite difficult to change this routine. Here's what you need to know about your cat's annoying morning behavior, and advice that will help you to change their habit. Why your cat is waking you up In many cases, food will be the motivation for waking you up. If the longest gap between meal times happens to fall when you're asleep, your cat's rumbling stomach may motivate some very annoying behavior. However, some cats will just be looking for attention. If your cat is highly sociable but doesn't live with any other pets, loneliness may drive the cat to paw at you in an attempt to solicit affection. It's also worth noting that boredom can lead to a cat trying to wake you, and this issue is once again more common in single cat households. How to change your cat's habit If the cat's goal is to obtain food, giving in to their demands just reinforces their behavior. Even though it is tempting to throw some food in your cat's direction so that you can be left alone to sleep, this short-term solution will lead to repeated instances of early waking. Delayed gratification can also influence your cat's likelihood of sticking to the same pattern of behavior, so even waiting for twenty minutes or half an hour is reinforcing the early waking pattern. While you might also be tempted to shut your cat in a room that is far enough away that you won't be woken by any crying, this tactic may distress your pet. If it turns out that your cat is primarily looking for affection or stimulation, being trapped in a small space may be frightening or upsetting. One of the best ways to change your cat's behavior is to change what you do with your cat at night. In particular, feeding your cat late at night (i.e. right before you go to bed) can help to keep hungry kitties satisfied throughout the night. In addition, a night time playing session that leaves your cat feeling happy and tired can promote restful sleep and reduce the need for stimulation during the night. However, it is always good to leave plenty of toys for the cat to play with at night as well.  If you feed your cat dry food, you can experiment with a meal delivery system that is automated. Once your cat learns that you are not directly responsible for meals, you may find that the animal stops pestering you during the night. Feature image credit

Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that your cat will approve of your choice of partner. While you may have foreseen this if you have an obviously shy or choosy pet, there are also mystifying cases in which cats simply do not like particular people. You may never convince your cat to love your partner as much as you do, but keeping the following advice in mind may at least help your cat to tolerate the new person in your life. 1. Don't try to force an instant resolution It is vital to avoid the temptation to force your cat and partner into intense interactions in an attempt to create a bond. If your cat is scared of your partner, the animal will only emerge from these enforced liaisons feeling more afraid. Your partner may also see more aggressive behavior (such as hissing and growling) because the cat will feel trapped. Explain all of your ideas and motivations to your partner so it is clear that you're not demonstrating mistrust as well! 2. Swap scents Smells are very important to cats, and your pet may become more comfortable with the presence of your partner if you place items of your partner's clothing around the home (when your partner isn't standing in front of the cat). The scent may slowly become less threatening, and your cat may be less intimidated by your partner's presence as a result. Interestingly, you can also try putting some of your cat's scent on your partner. If you gently rub some of your partner's clothes on scent glands near the cat's mouth, pheromones will be transferred. Your cat deliberately transfers these pheromones onto people and objects in times of relaxation, so you may be able to trick your suspicious pet into feeling more comfortable around your partner. 3. Create safe spaces Your cat will find it easier to deal with the discomfort felt around your partner if there are plenty of places to hide. Comfortable beds, small spaces inside cat trees and even cardboard boxes provide sanctuary, and your cat is more likely to come to terms with your partner's presence if an escape route is always available. 4. Offer bribes If your cat comes to see your partner as someone who brings enjoyable items, trust may slowly develop. For example, your partner might try putting a single treat in your cat's food (before walking away) each time they meet, or you may even try having your partner prepare the cat's food at mealtimes. Toys can also make effective bribes for particularly playful cats, especially if the toys contain catnip (for those cats that like catnip). 5. Suggest play sessions In addition to giving the cat toys to play with, your partner can try playing games with your cat. The key is to play from a safe distance, using a fun toy dangled at the end of the rope. A younger or more active cat will find this type of game hard to resist, and repeated sessions can help to lessen feelings of fear or hostility in your pet. Feature image credit  

Friendly cats can be an utterly delightful addition to your household. They typically seek out affection, love being cuddled and have outgoing personalities that make them social companions as well as pets. However, there are specific circumstances in which a cat's friendliness can become deeply problematic. The first relates to outdoor interactions with others, and the second concerns how your cat might behave towards apprehensive visitors. Outdoor cats that are too friendly to strangers If your cat is eager to greet everyone on the street, serious dangers become salient. For one thing, an affectionate and gentle cat may be stolen by an opportunistic person on the street, especially if your cat is a known breed (such as a Siamese or a Persian). Some people steal cats for themselves or try to sell them to make a quick buck. In addition, the sad fact is that there are also people who might harm your friendly and trusting cat. If it's easy to get hold of your pet without any suspicion or retaliation, you should strongly consider these unpleasant possibilities. Since there is little that you can do to train your cat to be less friendly, and since an affectionate personality is generally desirable, you may want to think about keeping your cat indoors. Contrary to popular belief, indoor cats can be entirely happy, provided you offer them enough space and stimulation. Toys, play centers, window perches and other feline buddies are all limitless sources of entertainment for the indoor cat. If you feel uncomfortable about restricting the cat to your home, you can also try building a large outdoor run that lets your cat explore a large portion of your yard without ever being in any danger. Indoor cats that are too friendly to your guests Not everyone likes cats, and to these people it can be utterly terrifying to see an inquisitive feline's face trying to rub against their arms and legs. However, even if you have frequent guests who don't like the behavior of your friendly cat, it is hard to argue that it would be good to train your cat to be unfriendly. Friendly cats tend to be well-adjusted, happy cats, and that's not something you will want to change. Instead, the key is to think of good strategies that keep your guests calm without distressing your cat. One good option is to shut your cat in a separate room when your wary visitors arrive, but if you decide to take this course of action then you need to make sure that the room caters to your pet's every need. In particular, you will need to provide fresh water, several comfy places to sleep, and some fun toys to play with. If your cat is young, it is also worth noting that behavior changes as cats age. While your pet will probably remain friendly, you might see this expressed in less gregarious ways after a few years have passed. Feature image credit

Owners that bring home a new pet often liken the situation to bringing home a new child. A new baby requires a lot more attention, but new pets create a lot of change in the average routine as well. Welcoming a new kitten into your home comes with challenges, and one of the most difficult challenges arises when it is time to return to work.   The first time you leave your kitten home alone you are no doubt nervous about what is going to happen. Will the kitten whine all day and perhaps become distressed? Perhaps it will become bored and destroy things around the home. Even worse, an untrained kitten may leave messes everywhere but in the litter box. How can you prepare your kitten to be home alone for the first time?   1. Control access The absolute worst thing you can do is leave the house for first time and allow your kitten to have free range throughout the house. It is important to establish a safe, but confined, environment for it to spend the day in until you return. There are several ways of doing this, but the easiest is to simply confine it to one room. It goes without saying that bathrooms, closets, and other small rooms are a poor choice.   Select a bedroom or office in the home, or better yet the laundry room, where your kitten can spend the day. Create a safe environment by removing anything from the room that the kitten could harm itself playing with, or destroy if it becomes too playful. Examples of items to remove include glass vases, bottles, and cleaning supplies with harmful chemicals.   2. Provide entertainment Now that you have selected an environment for your kitten to spend the day in, you'll need to provide it with some entertainment. Just because you have locked the kitten in one room does not mean it is going to magically behave because you removed all of the dangers. Leave an array of toys out for the kitten to play with. It would be a good idea to invest in a scratching post and climbing house for the kitten's room. This provides an outlet for any destructive tendencies, while also providing it with a task (climbing) to do during the day.   3. Don't forget necessities If there is one advantage to owning kittens over puppies, it is the ability of kittens to use the bathroom indoors without (necessarily) making a mess. Before you leave your kitten home all day in its safe environment, move its litter box into the room so that it can use the bathroom when needed without going wherever it pleases.   Additionally, don't forget to leave food and water dishes out in the room. Cats are grazing eaters, so it is difficult to feed them before you leave and then again when you return home. Leave a bowl in the room with some dry food in it for your kitten to munch on when it gets hungry. It's natural to get thirsty while eating, so don't forget to leave a bowl of water out for your kitten as well.   Some of these habits can change as your kitten matures. Without question, the most important step to follow with a kitten being left home for the first time is a controlled environment. Older cats tend to behave well with access to the entire home. Kittens are rambunctious and prone to mischief though, so it would be foolish to allow them more than one room to roam in during your absence. Feature image credit

  Skin disorders can be uncomfortable and at times debilitating for dogs. They can range from minor, easily treatable conditions to more chronic disorders that can impair your dog's life. Skin conditions are one of the leading reasons that dogs are brought to their veterinarian and can be caused by a huge variety of factors, from the seasons, weather, diet and hereditary conditions. Depending on what the particular skin condition is, there will be a variety of symptoms that may present themselves in your dog. Common or general symptoms of skin disorders are: Rashes Hair loss or bald patches Redness or inflammation Scabs Dry, flaky skin Lesions Swelling or lumps Skin discolouration Scaly patches Scratching, licking or chewing at skin   Types of skin conditions Infectious skin disorders Ringworm – a fungal infection of the hair and follicles Alabama rot – an often fatal condition produced from toxins by the E. Coli bacteria Canine scabies – microscopic parasites invading the skin. Malassezia dermatitis – very common yeast infection. Cheyletiella – mild form of dermatitis caused by mites. Immune-mediated skin disorders Pemphigus- autoimmune skin disease causing ulceration and crusting of the skin, fluid-filled sacs and cysts and pus filled lesions. Discoid lupus erythematosus- autoimmune disease that affects the basal cell layer of the skin. Hereditary skin disorders Ehlers-Danlos – or skin fragility syndrome, causes the skin to stretch, sag and become very painful. Hypotrichosis – or congenital alopecia. Hair loss from birth or early age. Ichthyosis – Thickening of the outer layer of the skin and foot pads. Seborrheic dermatitis – chronic re-occuring mild form of dermatitis Environmental skin disorders Acral lick granulomas – often caused by anxiety, causes dogs to lick (usually) their legs and feet causing sore lesions. Staphylococcus infection – contagious bacterial infection. Hot spot – or moist dermatitis is a localised skin inflammation.   Skin disorders can also be caused by fleas, seasonal allergies (pollen, dust, mites, grasses) or food allergies (beef, chicken, wheat, corn, food colourings). Some skin disorders are sometimes a marker for other more serious health conditions such as hormonal abnormalities or even tumours. If you are even slightly concerned or notice any symptoms take your dog to the vet where they will investigate. Your vet is likely to perform skin biopsies, microscopic examinations, allergy testing or blood tests. Feature image credit    

All dogs need to eat a balanced diet in order to maintain a healthy lifestyle. But for dogs with cancer, it’s even more important that their diet contains all the right ingredients. The weight loss that occurs in dogs with cancer is referred to as “cancer cachexia.” Both fat and muscle are lost, leaving your dog malnourished. Even if your dog is consuming an adequate amount of food, it’s the cancer cells that are actually eating it.  So what does cancer like to eat, and more importantly, what doesn’t it? Tumor cells prefer to feed off of carbohydrates, so your dog should be put on a low carb diet. Foods with lower glucose carbs such as apples, oatmeal, and brown rice, are good options for dogs with cancer. With less carbohydrates, there will be less for tumor cells to grow on. A dog with cancer will probably not eat as much as they used to, so it’s important that what little food they eat contains as many calories as possible. The food should also be high in fat and moderately high in protein, but not processed protein like the kind found in hot dogs or bologna. A diet with high fat and protein levels will help to combat the loss of weight and muscle mass caused by cancer cachexia. Added nutrients such as Omega-3 fatty acids may also be beneficial to dogs with cancer, but it’s best to consult your veterinarian before supplementing. As a quick recap, the recommended diet for a dog fighting cancer includes: Small amounts of carbohydrates High in caloric content Moderately high in quality proteins High in fat Omega-3 fatty acids Remember to talk to your veterinarian to determine what combination is best for your dog’s cancer.     header image credit