As we approach the middle of summer and the temperatures really begin to soar, spare a thought for your feline friend who may be suffering the effects of the heat much worse than you are… Cats sweat through their paws so it can be difficult to detect when a cat is getting too hot. You may notice them groom themselves a lot more than usual because as the saliva on their fur dries and evaporates it aids in cooling them down. If it reaches 90 degrees (F) indoors, your cat will begin to pant, which is a sure-fire way to tell that they are really feeling the heat. The best thing you can do for your cat when it gets really hot is to have a constant supply of cold, cool water and that there are plenty of shady locations for your feline to hang out in. In addition, there are some other methods you can adopt to help keep your kitty cool. Tips for keeping cats cool Wrap a bag of frozen peas or ice in a towel and place it somewhere for your cat to lie down on. The peas and ice move about and is quite comfortable for your cat. Place a pan of ice in front of a fan and let it blow in your cat's direction, providing refreshing cool air. Dampen some towels for your cat to lie down on. If you have a long-haired cat, get them a summer suitable haircut, particularly on their bellies so they can cool off by lying on tiles. Rub your cat down with wet hands or wet paper towels. Groom them regularly to get rid of any hairballs. Grooming also helps to keep them cool. Make an alcohol/water mix that you can rub them with. Let your cat stand for a few minutes in 2 inches of cold water - they might not enjoy it at first though! Keep your cat calm and don't get them to exert themselves too much. Buy an automated water fountain or at least have a few bowls of fresh, cool water dotted inside and outside your home. Play a game by getting your cat to chase ice cubes on the floor - fun and cooling at the same time! For some cat owners, their overheating cats might refuse to drink water, making symptoms of dehydration much worse. It is very important that your cat keeps their fluid intake up so you may be forced to get involved. You achieve this by filling an eye dropper or syringe with water and drop a couple of drops into the corner of your cat's mouth. DON'T shoot the water in their because you may cause them to choke or for the water to enter their lungs instead. A special mention goes to owners of white cats because they are the most at risk of becoming sunburnt and potentially developing skin cancer, particularly on their ears and nose. If you own a white cat, keep them out of the sun as much as you can and apply sunscreen to their most vulnerable areas. You can speak to your vet to get a recommendation on a cat-friendly sunscreen. More than just hot: heatstroke Your cat's temperature should be between 100.5 to 102.5 degrees (F). You would have to use a rectal or ear thermometer to check on this as that's the only way. If your cat gets very overheated they could be in danger of developing heatstroke... Heatstroke is a fever brought on by the failure of the body's normal temperature regulation system due to being in overly high temperatures. It can have disastrous effects including organ dysfunction, so if you suspect your kitty is more than just a little hot, take them to the vet for immediate assistance so their body temperature can be regulated and receive IV fluids. Signs and symptoms of heatstroke include: Dehydration Panting Excessive salivation Respiratory distress / hyperventilation Seizures Congested mucous membranes Cardiac arrhythmias Dazed state Coma Vomiting or diarrhoea with blood in it Anxiety or pacing Lethargy Dark red gums If you believe your pet has heatstroke you need to take them to the vet, in the meantime you can help them by rubbing alcohol on their paws, use wet towels or place a fan towards your pet as you transport them. However it shouldn't be done continuously or for long periods of time because your pet's condition could quickly transform into hypothermia. And never immerse your pets in ice, although periodically placing ice on top of their head can help alleviate their condition. Note: If your pet has heatstroke once, it is possibly more susceptible of developing it again. Feature image credit  

When it comes to the human body, many people are in tune with the messages their bodies are sending them. Issues with constipation or diarrhea can be as simple as a meal that did not agree with the body, or as complicated as cancer or other chronic bowel conditions. Pet owners need to be aware of these same issues in their animals. Cats are not immune to bowel issues, and if left unchecked, a simple problem can become something much bigger.   Bowel Issues in Cat There are three common bowel issues that impact cats. These bowel problems include chronic diarrhea, sporadic vomiting, and malabsorption. Taken together, these three issues are considered inflammatory bowel disease or irritable bowel disease (IBD). Identifying IBD in cats can be difficult. Some cats may show signs of IBD in a cyclical pattern during which the severity of the symptoms ebb and flow, while others suffer constantly.   IBD in cats All IBD issues in cats are the result of reactions in the gastrointestinal system of the body. The reaction can be the result of interaction with foods, bacteria, or parasites in the local environment. For example, during the summer months your cat could come in contact with parasites or bacteria that's more prevalent during summer, bringing on a case of IBD.   When the reaction to these issues gets out of control a large number of inflammatory cells in the cat's body begin to collect along the gastrointestinal tract and disrupt digestion and absorption of food. It is important to catch IBD in a cat because it cannot be cured. Once IBD appears in a cat, it can only be managed going forward in the future.   The treatment of IBD in cats often consists of a combined approach that uses both immunosuppressive drugs and a change in diet.   Colitis in cats If IBD is left untreated in a cat it can lead to a more serious condition known as colitis. This disease is an inflammation of the colon or large intestine. Much like the various forms of IBD, colitis can be acute or chronic. Colitis can be caused by a number of issues, including IBD that goes unnoticed.   Colitis has a significant impact on the movements of your cat. Cats suffering from this disease often have fresh, red blood their stool. Mucus in the stool, straining during defecation, and a more frequent need for the litter box are all possible signs of colitis. Acute colitis sometimes manifests itself as little more than diarrhea. Chronic colitis can be easier to spot as your cat may struggle with a poor appetite, weight loss, and lethargy. In many cases, once you notice the chronic symptoms in your cat it has already been suffering for some time.   IBD is not the only cause of colitis, so diagnosing and treating colitis requires the expertise and testing of a veterinarian. You'll need confirmation from your vet that your cat is suffering colitis as a result of IBD. Only by definitively identifying colitis as the issue for your cat (and IBD as the root cause) can your vet offer a course of treatment that improves your cat's health.

It seems uncanny the amount dogs seem to understand when we chat to them around the house. The words ‘walkies,’ ‘treat’ or ‘dinner’ is usually met with much tail wagging and spinning about. And that is not to mention commands like ‘sit’, ‘stay’, ‘beg’ and of course their own name.   But can dogs really understand what we are talking about? Or is something else at play?   It’s not a fantasy that dogs associate words with actions, incoming food or a trip to the park. Dogs can develop a very large vocabulary by animal standards of human words – estimates place the average dog’s understanding at 165 words which can go higher if they are properly trained. Border Collie, Chaser is up to 1000 words and fellow border collie Rico is master of over 360.    Image Credit  What's more, they have both been proven to be able to engage in a process known as ‘fast-mapping’ once thought unique to humans. The dogs were given a toy box, filled with toys known to them except for one. When asked for a ‘rope’ or ‘ball’ they happily retrieved the items they knew those words meant. When given a new word that was foreign to them, they concluded it must mean the item they had never seen – a revolutionary display of canine intelligence.   However, the canine understanding of words is not quite as involved as our own comprehensions. For example, whilst a dog may understand the word ‘walk,’ it, to their doggie brain, simply means going to the local park they always go, or other experiences of outings they have stored in their memory. The idea that ‘walk’ or ‘walking’ refers to the actual movement of walking even when they do so around the house is beyond their understanding. Words with concrete meanings that relate to actions the dog particularly enjoys or has received a memorable scolding for are the most likely to be retained in their memory and understood.   Image Credit Tone and body language play a big part in how dogs relate to and understand their owners, as the majority of canine conversation is non-verbal. If told in a friendly, happy voice “You are a horrid creature” many dogs will be thrilled and take it as great praise. So - whilst dogs are clever, their powers of understanding do have their limits. For example, some owners, upon arriving home from a day of work, have found their shoe collection demolished on the floor by their energetic friend. Holding up a shoe and shouting ‘shoe – no!’ their pet appears thoroughly sorry and seems to ‘know what he did’. However this may not be true.   Image Credit The dog is more likely to be picking up on the word ‘No!’ (which they remember from past acts of mischief leads to a time outside and no pats for a while), the owner’s aggressive body posture and unhappy tone when showing submissive behaviour rather than comprehending the word ‘shoe’ or making the connection between their current problem and the actions of hours past. Even if the shoe is shown to them, dog memory has been shown to be very specific, with an object outside of its initial environment and position seeming like something else entirely.   So yes, we can talk to our dogs, but their understanding and the way they understand language is different to our own capacities which for their sake needs to be held in the forefront of our minds.    Feature Image Credit  

As some readers will know, certain dogs are petrified of going up and down stairs. To us it can seem silly - its just stairs! But it is important to keep in the forefront of your mind that your dog is not ‘pretending’ to be afraid or is just being strange. From their perspective their fear is entirely rational and justified. Just like a child petrified of thunder storms or the dark, the stairs for some reason have taken on monstrous proportions in their mind.    Image Credit It is often helpful when approaching this fear, or any other, to first try and determine where it might have come from. Has your dog fallen or tripped down the stairs and been in pain because of it? Might, if your dog is a rescue, it have been yelled or abused near or on a stairway? Or has it simply never encountered stairs before and finds them a new and alien addition to their environment?   To transform your dog into a champion stairmaster it is your job to change the stairs from Enemy No. 1 to the place where amazing, great things happen. Forcing or dragging a dog up and down is a big no-no – whilst it may make them actually physically climb the stairs, it can only reinforce their idea of the stairs as being a nasty place to be best avoided if possible. Instead, begin training with treats and toys on hand. Be patient and reward any progress, no matter how small, your dog makes towards conquering their fear. Hold the treat or toy over the bottom step and if they put their front paws on top in order to reach it praise and reward excessively. When the bottom step becomes no big deal, move onto the next one.    Image Credit Remember to pace yourself – 10 minute training sessions each day can often be better than an hour long session one a week where your dog’s attention span is strained and you start to become frustrated.   Also keep in mind once your dog has learnt to go upstairs, descending will be a new experience that will likely require a training process similar to what you have just completed.   Image Credit With patience, your dog should learn that stairs are harmless and nothing to be worried about.   However, if your dog has serious issues, and no amount of perseverance on your part seems to have any effect, it may be time to ask if your dog really needs to go upstairs or call in the services of a professional dog trainer. For some dogs, the severity of their worries may not be worth the distress they will suffer trying to conquer them and it may just be best to leave things be.    Feature Image Credit   

Some cats, when cuddled up on their owner’s lap, have a habit of taking a hold of part of their clothes in their mouth and sucking. It can be baffling behaviour for people who have not had a cat prone to it before – what on earth are they up to?   Why 'Sucking'?   Whilst it may seem peculiar, sucking cats are just continuing a natural kitten impulse into adulthood. Kittens suck on their mothers for milk, often kneading her body at the same time with their paws. Adult cats are simply treating their owner’s as ‘Mothers’, sucking their clothes and pawing as they would have as babies.   Image Credit   Though they don’t receive milk for their efforts, sucking clothing, like a child sucking its thumb, can be a comforting and relaxing thing to do for cats. Cats that have been weaned too early or orphaned are especially likely to engage in the behaviour, their reduced ‘childhood’ creating an infantile adult.   Sometimes sucking is simply an expression of relaxation, but it can also be a response to anxiety or boredom. If your cat seeks you out to suck, it may be a sign they have been fretting about something and sucking is their way of lowering their stress levels.    Image credit  Can I stop it?   If your cat only sucks occasionally and they seem otherwise happy with their life and only seem to do so out of affection, it may be best to just leave things be.   If it is a compulsive habit however, there are some actions you can take to help minimise your cat’s habit.   1. Get Up and Walk Away  If your cat starts sucking, simply place them gently on the ground and leave the room. This is a simple way of showing them their behaviour is not appreciated. Make sure you act as soon as the sucking occurs so your cat can make the association that sucking leads to the end of your petting session.   2. Distraction Distraction with toys or play can be another way to help break the compulsion. If your cat is prone to suck out of boredom, increased stimulation could take away the root issue - and their really is no cat that won’t benefit from increased environmental enrichment.   3. Kitty Chew Toys    Image Credit If your cat finds oral behaviours relaxing and you only want them to stop using you as their own personal sucking station think about buying them some cat chew toys. There are dental health cat toys that help clean your cat’s teeth and your kitty can suck and gnaw on them until their heart’s content. 4. Remove Stress If you are worried your cat is anxious, try discovering what in their environment might be causing them issues. Is it another cat in the house or neighbourhood? When the family dog barks? A change in the daily routine? If you can’t change what is upsetting your cat try adding more hidey-holes and cat poles to your home so your cat has lots of places to ‘escape’ their worries.    Image Credit Another possible solution is getting a feline pheromone diffuser. It has been shown to have positive effects of nervous cats and help reduce a wide variety of problem behaviours.    Feature Image Credit  

Toads are a common and for the most part harmless feature of backyards around the world – however a certain number of species are equipped with natural defence systems against predators that can backfire for curious dogs who cross their path. Equipped with poisonous skin of various strengths, a dog who licks or happens to eat a toxic toad may be in serious trouble.   Poisonous Species    Image Credit  In the US, the Colorado River Toad and Giant Toad are the two most likely species to cause illness and death in dogs. In Australia, the introduced Cane Toad is a prevalent and serious problem for pet owners as its range extends across half the continent and lethal results are likely in untreated cases.   Signs of Poisoning   Image Credit There are a number of signs of poisoning that may be apparent in your dog. Excessive drooping, frothy salivation, head shaking, pawing at the mouth and vomiting are common symptoms, with severity varying depending on the type of toad, the amount of toxin the dog was exposed to and the amount of time that passed before they were found by their owners. Other symptoms are cardiac arrhythmias, dyspnea (shortness of breath), cyanosis (blueish discolouration of skin) and seizures.   Treatment   If you suspect your dog has had a nasty encounter with a toad an immediate trip to the vet is essential. Time is one of the most crucial factors which will determine whether or not a dog will survive. An affected dog will likely have their mouth flushed and drugs used to control abnormal heart rhythms. A cool bath may also be used to reduce temperature and painkillers administered to reduce the dog’s suffering whilst it stabilises.     Remember   Image Credit   Whilst toads can be dangerous to dogs it is important not to overreact if you see a toad or frog in your garden as they are an important part of the ecosystem that are often completely harmless to your pet. Your local wildlife authority is the best source of information as to what species are in your area and if any are potentially harmful to your four-legged friend.    Feature Image Credit

Does your cat do any of the following? Following you everywhere you go (yes, even to the bathroom). Sulking, meowing or slinking away while you are getting ready to leave the house. Crying or meowing when you have left the house or even when you're out of sight, (like when you're sleeping or taking a shower). Not eating when left home alone. Eliminating at the front door, on your clothing, or bedding. Destructive behaviour. Extremely positive greetings when you return home. If you said yes to one or more of these points - you probably have yourself a velcro kitty. But we're pretty sure you already know that because it's always very obvious! Some cat owners enjoy having a cat as their constant companion and find the dependence charming and very flattering - which is OK if you spend a lot of time at home. However, for owners who perhaps work 9-5 or are away a lot, it can be really difficult to deal with and at least makes you feel guilty. If you have a velcro cat, keep a close eye on their behaviour because your cat could easily develop separation anxiety - which is not pleasant for them to experience and will more than likely require some professional medical assistance. Possible reasons why your cat is stuck to you like velcro A naturally timid and insecure cat may feel a real desire for attention and reassurance from their owner. Boredom Emotional or physical discomfort - if the clingy behaviour has come on suddenly, visit your vet to eliminate any sinister health conditions. Neglegted as a kitten. Naturally more interactive and demanding. Another possible reason may be due to not enough training or assertiveness. While it's lovely to have a cat depend on you and enjoy your company, the cat shouldn't have you trained - it should be the other way around! How to help a velcro cat become less attached If you think the cause is due to separation anxiety or an underlying health condition, visit your vet. If you think it's because you are too lenient, start implementing some basic training or at  least, be more assertive - don't give in to cuddles in the middle of the night (stay strong!) Change your routine: If you hang around while your cat is eating or playing - stop doing it, so they get used to eating and playing on their own. If your cat is bored, check out these handy solutions here. Get another cat. This could work wonders, particularly if your cat is lonely or anxious. At the end of the day if you feel happy and content with your loving and affectionate, velcro kitty then that's great, however if it's becoming a problem not just for yourself but for your cat then there are ways to fix the situation. Feature image credit

Hand targeting is an extremely useful skill to teach your dog. Once your dog understands the basic behavior, you’ll be able to teach your dog a handful of tricks!   What Is Hand Targeting? Hand Targeting is exactly what it sounds like: your hand is the target, and your dog learns to, well, target it. When presented with an outstretched hand, your dog will touch their nose to it. If you’ve ever watched an agility competition, then you’ve noticed how the handler often uses their hand to navigate their dog through the obstacles.   Why Is It Useful? Teaching your dog to touch their nose to your palm can be useful in a variety of situations. You can use it to guide your dog onto a scale at the vet, to lead them through a crowded space, or to jump on and off of furniture. It can also function as “come”, and as a way to focus a nervous or aggressive dog.   How Can I Teach My Dog To Hand Target? Just like any other behavior, you’ll need treats and patience to get hand targeting down. Once you cut up pea-sized treats of something your dog likes and choose a quiet place, you can proceed with the following steps:   1. Hold out an empty hand approximately six inches away from your dog’s nose. Make sure your hand is level with your dog's nose. Most dogs will move towards your hand to investigate. The instant they touch your palm, say “Yes!” and reward them with a treat from your other hand.   Note: If your dog doesn’t move toward your hand, you can prompt the first few touches by either rubbing a treat on your hand (to make it smell more desirable), or removing your hand and then presenting it again a few seconds later to grab your dog’s attention.   2. Repeat the first step multiple times until you are confident your dog will touch your hand at six inches away. Now you can start presenting your hand in different places. Try a few inches left or right of their nose, towards the floor, and above their head. Don’t forget to say “Yes!” and reward them every time.   3. Once your dog reliably touches your hand, you can add a verbal cue such as “touch”, “target”, or “here." Say the cue prior to presenting your hand, and reward your dog when they touch it.   You should practice for a week or two, a few times a day. Presenting your hand 15-30 times each session shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes.   4. Now it’s time to practice in more distracting locations such as busier rooms in your home, your backyard, or during walks. If your dog struggles, revert to practicing in a quieter room until their confidence is regained.   The Fun Part Now that your hand has basically become a dog magnet, you can train your dog to do a variety of tricks including, “jump”, “spin”, and “say hi.” Hand targeting can also be used to teach your dog how to play hide and seek, and even how to close a door. The idea is that if you can train your dog to “touch” your hand, you can get them to touch other objects/people as well.

The first time you realise that your four legged friend is old can be quite an upsetting realisation. Maybe they didn't move when you called them, or perhaps a photograph you took illuminated all those grey hairs and tired eyes? The autumn years for your pooch requires a different level of care, so it's important to learn about the best ways to provide that care. What breed of dog you own will also determine when they are categorised as 'senior.' Generally, giant breeds have a shorter lifespan than smaller breeds so you can expect them to reach old age sooner. However, your dog's lifestyle - diet, exercise and medical history will also impact on the longevity of your dog. The best thing to do is to prepare yourself for this transition in both you and your dog's lives and to be on the lookout for changes so you can react quickly. Signs of old age in dogs Senses begin to deteriorate Appetite may decrease Weight loss - resulting in the shoulders and spine becoming more prominent. Energy levels decrease Slowing down Greying around the face and muzzle Thicker skin Rougher and thinner coat - potentially with bald patches or white hairs. Deafness Cloudy or bluish eyes Excessive thirst Uncontrolled urination Depression Disobediance Confusion Warts, fatty lumps or tumours - check these with your vet. Muscle loss - normal around the hind legs but if it occurs elsewhere, consult your vet. Sleeping more during the day, and less so at night. Arthritis and stiffness - difficulty playing, going up and down stairs, in and out of cars, trouble sleeping comfortably. Best care for senior dogs Make regular trips to the vet and when there always ask for a complete body evaluation. Maintain a regular exercise schedule, but reduce the longevity and intensity of your sessions. Change your dog's diet to one specifically formulated for senior dogs. If your dog has a health condition - consult your vet on ways you can change your dog's diet to suit their health needs. Change your dog's vaccination schedule to every three years. Keep your dog engaged with lots of affection and plenty of toys to keep their minds stimulated and stave off boredom. Installing gates and doors will prevent any arthritic dogs from attempting stairs that they shouldn't. Changing their bedding to suit their needs - plenty of padding for sore joints. Change the treats you give them to suit their older, worn teeth. Get in the habit of checking your dog often for any abnormalities. Look at the ears, mouth, teeth and gums, skin and coat. Maintain your regular flea, worming and tick treatments. Avoid harsh chemicals. Feature image credit

The movement and locomotion of a four-legged animal like a dog is very different to human locomotion. As a human being, you walk by moving one foot in front of the other. When you are walking, your lead foot hits the ground before the following foot leaves the ground. When you run, there is a space in your gait where both feet are briefly off the ground. This is as complicated as it gets for the human body.   Dogs, on the other hand, will move by walking, trotting, and pacing (sometimes called galloping). A dog's walking gait is similar to a human, with each foot touching the ground before another foot comes off the ground. However, the trotting and pacing gait in a dog is slightly more complex. A dog's trotting gait is most commonly used when it is running. The pacing gait in your dog is one form of movement which you, as the owner, should be paying close attention.   A dog's pacing gait is a unique movement compared to its walking or trotting gait. Pacing means that a dog is moving in what is called a two-time gait. This means that the legs on one side of dog's body are pushing off and landing at the same time. A pacing gait has nothing to do with speed of the movement, but rather the motion your dog uses during the movement. Your dog may use its pacing gait while walking or while trotting. Pacing is an efficient gait for dogs because it requires less effort and puts less stress on its body. When your dog trots there is a significant amount of rotational movement in its back. Pacing removes that rotational movement from the gait, requiring less effort from the body.   There are certain dog breeds that naturally prefer the pacing gait. Labradors and retrievers are known to prefer the pacing gait regardless of the circumstances (injury or fatigue). Additionally, dogs with long legs and short bodies will pace because it prevents their back feet from stepping on or otherwise interfering with their front feet. This occurs most frequently when these dogs are trotting though.   Aside from genetic reasons, dogs may use their pacing gait as a result of fatigue. As mentioned earlier, trotting requires a lot of rotational movement in a dog's back. This stresses the muscles in the back and around the hip joints. Switching from a trotting to a pacing gait relieves the stress on your dog's back and allows tired muscles to relax as it paces along instead.   If you notice that your dog is utilizing the pacing gait frequently during its walk or trot, you should pay close attention to this change. This could be a sign that your dog is experiencing pain and discomfort in its back. When your dog is not tired and is using its pacing gait with great frequency it could be a sign of arthritis in its spine or a problem with vertebrae in its back. When you notice excessive use of the pacing gait, it is recommended that you bring your dog into the vet for a checkup. It could just be aging and arthritis, but it could also be a more serious problem that requires medical attention. Feature image credit