Pet Bucket Blog

If you've ever seen a cat go wild as if possessed, then chances are they were probably under the influence of catnip. Catnip is also known as catmint, catwort and field balm - whatever you call it, it has the power to make even the most docile or grumpiest of cats awash with total happiness and bliss - plus it's pretty amusing to witness! What is catnip? First off, catnip is not a drug. Rather, it's part of the mint family, which boasts 250 species. It originally came from Europe and Asia and it was always destined to be loved by cats as it's derived from the Latin word 'cataria' meaning 'of a cat.' Essentially when the leaves of the plant are broken a chemical and essential oil called nepetalactone is released which many cats seem to respond to in a very, very positive way. Why do cats love it? It's a bit of a myth to say that all cats love catnip. The reality is around half of all cats don't respond at all to it. It's an inherited trait, so not all cats end up with the catnip-loving gene. If you're unsure whether you have a catnip lover on your hands, you'll know by six months of age. Kittens and older cats don't respond either to it's minty goodness. Interestingly, it's not only domestic cats that can fall under the spell of catnip - big cats like lions easily succumb to catnip's powers. We wonder if keeping some catnip in your pocket would help if you came face to face with a lion out in the wild? Essentially, what happens is the chemical nepatalactone mimics a cat's pheromones causing a surge in a cat's brain that makes them want to rub up against the smell. And boy, do they go wild…   Image credit What are the side effects? Some typical reactions include:     •    Eat, lick, roll around or sniff the catnip     •    Rubbing themselves against the catnip     •    Playing with the catnip     •    Generally acting bizarrely     •    Rolling and flipping     •    Meowing or growling     •    Hyperactivity     •    Agression It is possible for cats to overdose on catnip which can lead to vomiting or diarrhea. If they've had a bit too much catnip they might also be unresponsive, twitch, make random noises or excessively drool. It that's the case, remove them from the catnip - but don't worry, catnip wears off in around 15 minutes and cats do return to their normal selves. These above reactions are all caused when a cat sniffs catnip, however, if they end up eating the catnip they may in fact become very mellow and sedate. Is it safe? Catnip is incredibly safe and bears no threat to your cat's health. It's also not possible for your cat to become addicted. However, as mentioned above, if your cat becomes a bit of a frequent user they may experience diarrhea - so you may have to make access limited.   Image credit How can it be used? Once you've witnessed what a powerful effect catnip can have on your feline - you'll soon realise that you can use it to your advantage as a trusty training tool. If you want to curb any naughty behaviours or entice your cat to use something like a new bed, a sprinkle of catnip can go a long way. Similarly, you can also make bored kitties entertained by making simple catnip flavoured toys  - try sprinkling an old sock with a bit of catnip. It's important to note that dried catnip is generally more effective and more enjoyed by cats than it's spray form counterparts which are just not as strong. You could also consider growing some in your garden, so you have a near-constant supply of the stuff. Any dried catnip that you're not using should be stored in the freezer to preserve it's potency. Can humans use it? Despite being popular with cats, catnip can also be very useful for humans too. Catnip has similar properties to chamomile so it can be made into a tea to provide calming effects. It can also be used to help sooth ailments like:     •    Mosquito bites     •    Upset stomachs     •    Headaches     •    Coughing     •    Insomnia     •    Muscle aches and pains     •    Chills     •    Haemorrhoids     •    Toothache It can be used as a:     •    Anaesthetic     •    Anitbiotic     •    Anti-Rheumatic     •    Antispasmodic     •    Astringent     •    Diuretic Please note, pregnant women should completely avoid catnip as it can induce uterine contractions. Feature image credit

Unless you have an outdoor cat that requires their claws for self-defense, it is best to keep your cat’s claws trimmed every two to three weeks. This will prevent injuries caused by claws caught in carpets, clothes and other fabrics. It will also keep your cat’s claws in good condition and alert you to any issues such as ingrown claws. Many cat owners find trimming their pet’s claws a slightly nerve-racking task, but with a bit of time and patience, it will become a regular ritual that your feline friend will not necessarily enjoy, but start to accept. Follow these five simple tips, and you’ll be well on your way to claw trimming success! 1. Get your cat used to the nail trimming position The best time to trim a cat’s claws is when they’re asleep or relaxed. Start training your cat from an early age to accept having their paws and claws handled and manipulated. A good time to do this is when you are cuddling and bonding. If you're going to be trimming the cat's nails by yourself, get your cat used to sitting on its rear on your lap, facing away from you. This will enable you to hold them steady, with a paw in one hand and the clippers in the other. 2. Become familiar with your cat’s claws To access each claw, gently press each paw between your thumb and forefinger and the claw will pop outward from the toe. At the base of each nail is a pink strip called the quick where blood vessels and nerve endings lie. You want to avoid cutting too close to the quick otherwise you will cause bleeding and pain. 3. Use specially designed cat claw clippers Cat claw clippers come in two styles – either guillotine or scissor style. I personally prefer the small scissor-type of cat claw clippers as I find them the quickest and easiest to use. Most have a non-slip, rubber handle that makes it easier to hold the clipper, reducing the risk of splintering the claw and hurting your cat.     4. Trim just the tip of each claw Cut just the tip of each claw, and as you get more comfortable, you can cut closer to the quick. Slowly snip just the tips off in a straight line approximately 2 mm away from the quick. Don’t yell at your cat if they won’t let you trim all their claws. At first you may only be able to trim one or two claws at a time. Be patient and keep trying!   5. Reward your cat for good behaviour If your cat is well behaved and lets you cut all their nails, reward them with a treat that you only give them after claw trimming. That way they will come to realise that cooperating will result in a special reward.

Administering pills to your cat may be easy for some, but for many it’s a daily struggle. Thankfully, there are several methods that can make the process less stressful both for you and your cat. 1. Special treats   image credit The best way to give your cat a pill is by using treats that are made specifically for this purpose. The treats are soft, sticky, and tasty so that your cat will have no idea they are taking medicine!   2. DIY Pill Pockets   image credit   Instead of purchasing treats, you could also try making your own. PetMd recommends forming “meatballs” out of your cat’s canned food. Make one with their pill, and a couple others without. 3. Crushing the pill image credit If your cat still refuses to take the pill, you could try crushing it into a very fine powder, and then mixing it with their wet food. Make sure you check with your vet first; some pills are not intended to be crushed.   These three methods work fine as long as your cat is allowed to have food with their medicine. In the case that they're not, your best bet is to restrain your cat and give them the pill directly.   4. The direct way   image credit Place one thumb and forefinger on either side of the cat’s face and apply gentle pressure at the space between the teeth. Once their mouth starts to open, press down on the lower jaw and deposit the pill as far back as possible. Close the mouth and massage their throat until they swallow. To make sure the pill doesn’t remain in the esophagus, give your cat a teaspoon of water from a syringe or eyedropper.   image credit   If your cat will not stay still or if you’re afraid of them scratching you, it’s probably best for you to wrap or swaddle your cat in a towel and then proceed with the previous steps.   No matter what method you use, make sure to give your cat lots of praise afterward!   feature image credit

Tiny dogs are becoming increasingly popular particularly among urban city dwellers, people who live in apartments or those who don't have much space. Small dogs are compact, cuddly, transportable, fond of affection and generally more affordable than their larger counterparts. They can also be easier to look after because they eat less, produce less waste, shed less, live longer and don't need as much exercise. They are however known for having huge personalities to counter-balance their teeny tiny bodies which can of course have it's own behavioural upsets! A small dog is characterised by being sixteen inches tall or less and weigh 22 pounds or less. Tiny dog breeds include: the Maltese, Pug, Pomeranian, Chihuahua and Dachschund as well as many of the designer breeds that are now popular. Caring for a tiny dog comes with it's own set of special needs that are important to follow in order to maximise it's health, wellbeing and happiness as well as yours.   Image credit 1. Make a safe place Tiny dogs can be very sensitive, whether they easily become scared or over-excited. Having a safe place for your little one is a great idea as it's somewhere they can escape to whenever they need to. This can be a crate or cage, bed or gated area that's away from high traffic areas. This safe place means that your little pooch is off limits so make sure this rule is communicated to family, friends and visitors. Keep your dog's toys in this area along with water and a heating pad covered with a soft fabric as small dogs get chilled easily. Another great idea is to have potty pads near by this location because small dog breeds tend to need the bathroom often! 2. Diet and food Tiny dogs have tiny stomachs and tiny appetites and are prone to digestive issues like bloating and vomiting which can be encouraged by eating large portions of food all a once. It's preferable to feed your small dog two or three meals a day using high quality, antioxidant rich (to promote longevity) protein (meat or fish) based food with no fillers like ash or corn. If you have a fussy eater on your hands you can moisten dry food with warm water or add a little canned food to liven up meal time and their appetite. Small dogs are also susceptible to hypoglycaemia so frequent meals helps to regulate their blood sugar. If you are time-poor consider purchasing an automatic feeder which can dispense several small meals a day. Beware to watch portion sizes because little dogs are prone to obesity! 3. Dental care Tiny dogs are prone to dental problems like tooth decay and gum disease so you should invest in dental pads or toothbrushes specifically for small breeds. Dental treats also help keep teeth clean and freshen breath. You should clean your dog's teeth once a week to keep any dental problems from occurring.   Image credit 4. Training Small dogs are intelligent and because of this, they can become easily bored or frustrated. Training is very important to help curb any naughty behaviour from developing such as ignoring basic commands like sit or stay. Get your little dog involved in group obedience classes which helps with socialisation, soothes boredom and importantly teaches them manners! 5. Exercise They might be small, but your tiny dog needs daily exercise. Of course you won't need to walk miles like you would if you owned a larger dog so a brisk walk around the block, or an energetic ball game should be suffice. The amount of exercise will be dependent on the breed so sometimes it might take a few extra minutes of activity to wear your pooch out. 6. Offer protection Your little dog might have oodles of confidence to take on that big Labrador down at the park but the reality is their bodies are too small and even a nudge from a bigger dog could cause injury. To prevent these sort of mishaps, when out with your dog keep them or a short lead and pick them up if it looks like trouble may be brewing. Image credit 7. Extracurricular activities As mentioned, small dogs are prone to boredom, largely due to their high intelligence. One way to combat this is through extra training and agility courses. It's another excellent way to socialise your dog and who knows you may have a little award-winning champion on your hands? Keep an eye out for events like fly ball, agility trails and obedience competitions. 8. Toys Because small dogs have more energy than larger breeds, you'll need to incorporate plenty of play time and toys into your pooch's daily routine. It helps prevent boredom and stave of bad behaviour - plus it keeps them happy! Remember to replace any broken or torn toys to prevent any nasty accidents. 9. Keep them warm   Seeing a tiny dog in an even tinier coat or jacket is incredibly cute - but it serves an important purpose. Small dogs feel the cold easily because they have no winter undercoat so can quickly develop hypothermia. So when it's cold out, make sure you dress your little dog appropriately. Sweaters and coats that are snug fitting and made from soft, natural fibres are best. Also remember to clean of any snow or ice from your pup's feet to stop painful ice balls developing between toes.   Image credit 10. Grooming They might be little and spend a lot of time indoors, but that doesn't mean your tiny dog doesn't need to be groomed. In fact, small dogs should be groomed from nose to tail weekly. Use a soft brush and look out for mats of hair in long-haired breeds. Remember to also use a small set of nail clippers to clip of small bits of nail, always avoiding the quick. 11. Be affectionate This should be easy to follow because your tiny dog is so adorably sweet! However not only is it important to handle your dog throughout the day to develop a close bond but it prevents them from become nippers. Remember to always be gentle, touching ears and feet to help get them used to being handled.   12. Promote longevity   As mentioned, small dog breeds live for a long time so it's important to look after them properly so they can have a long, happy and healthy life. As stated, an antioxidant rich diet is important to keep their insides healthy. As your small dog ages you will need to start buying joint care products, heated beds and aspirin to help bring comfort if they should develop arthritis. If you notice your dog begin to loose their teeth, gradually switch over to a high-quality canned food specifically targeted for mature dogs. Feature image credit

Just as you might enroll your child in daycare, you can also do the same for your dog. Although the reasons for enrolling are a little different, the concept is the same: You drop your dog off in the morning where he gets to play, socialize with other dogs, snack and nap, and then you pick him up on your way home from work. If you’re thinking of enrolling your dog in daycare here’s everything you need to know:   What is doggy daycare?   Doggy daycare is a great option for dogs with busy guardians who work and are not comfortable leaving their dogs home alone all day. Most are open for 12 hours a day, Monday through Friday, and offer half-day or full-day options. The cost can vary between $8.00 to $35.00 a day, but will depend on the provider. Privately owned daycares operated out of a home are often cheaper than a fully-staffed facility.   What are the benefits?   Not only does daycare relieve your dog of boredom and loneliness, but it also relieves you of the guilt you may feel about leaving your dog home alone. You can go to work knowing your dog is being well cared for and having a great time socializing with other dogs and people. After a long day of exercise and interaction, your dog will be nice and tired by the time you pick them up.   Good candidates   Since your dog will be interacting with other dogs all day, most doggy daycares require that your dog is healthy and spayed/neutered. Some may also require certain vaccines like the Bordetella. In terms of non-medical requirements, your dog should enjoy socializing and interacting with other dogs. For example, if your dog is a regular at the park and seems to enjoy themself there, then they’d be a great candidate for daycare. Also, younger dogs tend to adjust better in a daycare environment as opposed to older ones.   Bad candidates   Unvaccinated dogs, females in heat, and unneutered male dogs will be turned away from doggy daycare. Dogs who are undersocialized or haven’t had many positive experiences with other dogs are also not good candidates. If your dog has ever bitten another dog, or tends to be aggressive towards them, then daycare really isn’t the best place for them to be. You also don’t want to enroll a dog that tends to avoid or simply tolerate other dogs. Most likely they prefer to stay home than spend their day in the company of other dogs. Choosing the right daycare   If you’re going to be leaving your furbaby at a daycare, you want to be sure your dog is in good hands. Look for a daycare with the following qualities: clean and organized facility abundance of toys or equipment for dogs to play with a safe and comfortable place to nap knowledgeable staff with a basic understanding of canine communication staff that interacts with the dogs regularly including walking the dogs outdoors On your dog’s first day, it’s a good idea to stay and observe for a little. You want to pay attention to whether your dog seems happy or stressed out. Also look for these signs when you approach the daycare. Your dog should be happy and relaxed when approaching, not reluctant like they may be at the vet.   It’s important to make sure you feel comfortable with where you choose to leave your dog. You know your dog the best, so ask yourself if they will feel comfortable there too.     image credit

Many cats appear to be pretty cool customers, but that doesn't mean they are exempt from stress and anxiety. If stress becomes a major player in your cats' life, behaviour problems, particularly over-grooming, can become a real issue. What is it? Over-grooming, also known as psychogenic alopecia, is a coping mechanism for cats dealing with stressful situations. Some cats go bald or create sores on their body as a result of excessive licking and chewing. While self-grooming is perfectly normal behaviour for a cat - over-grooming is when the behaviour becomes a compulsion and disrupts a cats normal routine. Over-grooming is a common way for cats to cope with stress because the act of grooming releases endorphins so it's no wonder it's a behaviour they turn to when they feel anxious or stressed. Generally, as soon as a cat correlates grooming with a way to ease upset feelings the behaviour may increase and become compulsive. Causes Like humans, cats deal with stress in different ways and what one cat might become stressed over might not even conjure up a reaction in another. It's important to note that it might not always be obvious what is causing your cat stress or there could be more than one issue that's upsetting your cat. Common causes of stress include:     •    A death     •    A divorce     •    Owner working longer hours     •    A family member leaving the house. (e.g. to go to college or traveling)     •    Changes to routine     •    New family members     •    Moving house     •    Rearranging furniture     •    Presence of other cats How to identify Unfortunately, over grooming is a secretive activity, so many owners report that they find it hard to catch their kitty in the act. This may be because the cat doesn't feel the need to indulge in their secret vice because their owner's presence already gives them positive feelings. Or it may be because the owner has caught kitty out previously so the cat now knows not to do it around them. Fortunately, there are some signs that can help identify over-grooming.     •    Hair missing in places such as middle of the back, belly and inner thighs     •    Hair is very short and stubbled, in patches or broken     •    In extreme cases cat may lick, chew, pluck or bite areas and if you do catch them it's difficult to interrupt.     •    Grooming takes place out of context and disrupts usual activity   There are certain breeds that are more susceptible to over grooming. These include: the Siamese, Burmese, Himalayan and Abyssinian. How to help In the first instance, cat owners will need to distinguish whether their cat is over-grooming because of stress or is suffering from genuine alopecia. You'll know it's alopecia because the remaining hair feels soft and normal to touch, where as with over-grooming, hair is broken and spiky. There are also other diseases and illnesses that can cause over-grooming so it's also important to rule those out too. These include:     •    Lower urinary tract disease     •    Feline hyperaesthesia syndrome     •    Flea bites     •    Inhalled allergies     •    Ringworm The best thing to do to help is to consult your vet who will be able to make a formal diagnosis. If your cat is indeed over-grooming because of stress, the best thing to do is identify what is causing the stress and then eliminate it. Sometimes that's not always possible so there are other methods you can try to help stop this compulsive behaviour.     •    Leave small reminders from missed people such as a voice recording or an unwashed item of clothing to help give cats a little pick-me-up     •    If stress is caused by another cat, remember to introduce them slowly to keep stress levels down.     •    Play therapy can help increase a pet's self confidence - interactive games work best.     •    Plug in pheromone diffusers can help relieve stress. A trip to the vet will be most definately required though as anti-anxiety drugs or herbal remedies can be prescribed. Feature image credit

Many of us know that bringing a pet into your life can be a wonderfully loving and enriching experience. As we grow older we face more and more complications that are just part of the path of being elderly. Health and mobility is not what it used to be and social interactions lessen. If you're an elderly person or know an elderly person - owning and adopting a pet could be the best thing you ever did. Benefits of owning a pet The pros far outweigh the cons when it comes to pet ownership for the elderly. Benefits include:     •    Visits to the doctor decrease and use less medication     •    Lower blood pressure     •    Lower cholesterol     •    Recover quickly from illness and surgery     •    Cope with stress better     •    Feelings of loneliness and isolation lessen     •    Increase social interaction     •    Increase physical activity     •    Helps to build up mental stimulation     •    Pets help to reduce feelings of fear about "tomorrow" and promotes a sense of 'living in the now.'     •    Reduce depression     •    Improve memory loss     •    Improve motor skills     •    Builds self-esteem     •    Can help create new warm and loving friendships and relationships     •    Provides a sense of purpose     •    Increase mental alertness     •    People can brighten up more and feel more inclined to interact and chat Things to consider Owning a pet is always a big decision to make, particularly so for the elderly. There's a lot to consider and unfortunately pet ownership isn't going to be the answer for everyone. If you're thinking of adopting a new pet for yourself or an elderly friend or relative, it's important to consider the following before making a commitment to a new pet.     •    Are you set in your ways? If you are then owning a pet later in life may not be a good idea.     •    Is the pet the right age? A puppy or kitten can be very demanding. An older animal that's past adolescense is a good option - but remember different breeds have different life expectancies.     •    Have you had a pet before? If this is your first time owning a pet then perhaps it's not a great idea.     •    Do you have disabilities?     •    Do you need a therapy pet?     •    Does the pet have a good temperament?     •    Is the pet healthy?     •    Are you financially able to look after a pet?     •    Are you able to meet the pets' level of activity?     •    Does the pet have good social interaction skills?     •    Are you able to groom to the pet? Remember there are mobile services that van come and visit you at home to perform these duties.     •    What size is the pet? A very large dog may not be suitable for someone who is quite frail and prone to falls and fractures. However some larger dogs are more placid than little dogs.     It's also important to think about what will happen to your pet if you should pass away? It's crucial you have this sort of conversation and express your wishes to your friends, family and support networks. Recommended Breeds It's important to note that temperament and age should play a bigger factor in your decision making rather than leaving it up purely to breed.  However, generally speaking the following dogs and cats should be compatible for an elderly person.  Don't forget that there are many animals out there, particularly older pets waiting to be adopted, so shelters should be the first place you look for a new pet - you'll be saving those loving pets from a shortened life by euthanasia if you do. Dogs     •    Bichon Frise     •    Chihuahua     •    Cocker Spaniel     •    Fox Terrier     •    Havanese     •    Italian Greyhound     •    Miniature Poodle     •    Miniature Schnauzer     •    Lhasa Apso     •    Pomeranian     •    Pubg     •    Welsh Corgi     •    West Highland Terrier     •    Yorkshire Terrier Cats     •    Persian     •    British Shorthair     •    Ragdoll     •    Himalayan     •    Russian Blue     •    Maine Coon     •    American Shorthair  

Many kitten owners have found their new fuzzy family member loves to chew just as much as a puppy. Unfortunately cats seem drawn to sinking their teeth into things like electrical wires, houseplants and other household items which is not only frustrating to owners but can be dangerous for kittens – especially when live wires catch their attention!     So how do you stop your kitten from chewing everything in sight?   The first step is to identify why your kitten is chewing. Usually, it is because they are teething. Just like puppies and human babies when their teeth start pushing out of their gums their mouths become sensitive. Chewing can help relief this discomfort, and so it should be kept in mind your new furry pal might be chewing not to be naughty, but because they are in pain.   Generally adult teeth in cats start erupting when they are aged between 4 and 6 months and fully replace the milk teeth by 10 months by which point chewing should subsist.   In some cases chewing can be caused by other factors, which owner’s should also consider. Kittens and cats can chew due to stress and boredom as well more serious conditions such as a lack of vital minerals or vitamins.    Image credit     If your new kitty is teething there are a number of solutions to help prevent your house being shredded by tiny kitten teeth.   Kittens can be discouraged from gnawing on furniture and cables by coating them in unpleasant tasting solutions. These can be bought in stores – bitter apple spray is very popular – or made at home by mixing spicy substances like cayenne pepper with water.     Image credit  Covering electrical cords in tin foil can also discourage kittens from chewing them, as they dislike the metallic taste in their mouth (though beware, some kittens can enjoy the crackling sound).   Using double sided tape in favourite chew areas is another option, as cats normally recoil in horror from things that are sticky.     It is important to provide an alternative for teething kittens to chew once you have hunted them away from their favourite chew spots so they can relieve their discomfort. Cat chew toys are a good option, as are plants just for them to nibble on like lemongrass, catnip and cat grass.   Image credit   If boredom is the cause, the solution is lots of play and new toys to keep your cat mentally engaged.   If you suspect a more serious underlying condition, a trip to the vet may be in order, where they may be put on a course of supplements.    Feature Image Credit

Whilst we humans love chocolate as a snack, we know it is a bad idea to feed it to dogs. Of course, often dogs are convinced they would quite enjoy ‘sharing’ with us and there have been tales of dogs breaking into a box of chocolates and polishing them off. If a dog does accidentally get a hold of a chocolate product, owners often ask how much is too much? The answer varies from dog to dog, with larger dogs being able to tolerate larger amounts than smaller breeds.   Image credit Chocolate provokes such disastrous results in dogs due to a compenent it contains called theobromine. Whilst we humans can easily metabolise the substance, the dog digestive system processes it far more slowly, allowing it to build up to toxic levels. Whilst one small piece is unlikely to cause your dog serious distress (though it make instigate a case of vomiting or diarrhea) it is best to be on the safe side if you are unsure how much they have gotten into and take a trip to the vet. Serious signs of chocolate poisoning include severe hyperactivity, muscle tremors, seizures, irregular heartbeart, internal bleeding and heart failure.   Image credit Note that different chocolate products contain varying levels of theobromine.  The highest levels are found in cocoa, cooking chocolate and dark chocolate and the lowest levels in milk and white chocolate. Due to these differences a dog consuming a few pieces of dark chocolate can cause deadly results that would not happen if they instead ate milk chocolate. Only one ounce of dark is enough to poison a 44-pound dog. As a general rule, 100-150 mg/kg bodyweight of theobromine causes canine poisoning.   Image credit Treatment options are limited. The general course of action is to induce vomiting, wash out the stomach and feed activated charcoal to absorb any remaining theobromine left in the intestines. For more severe cases, intravenous fluids and medication may be required.    Feature Image Credit 

Giving cats eye drops is most people’s idea of a nightmare. Our feline friends aren’t generally keen on being restrained, having their eyes prodded and something wet put close. What normally ensures is a squirming, clawing wrestling session, with kitty running away and hiding and the tube of ointment sprayed everywhere, with not a drop in your pet’s eyes.    Image credit  All is not lost! We at Petbucket have some great suggestions to help you treat your cat’s eyes, beginning with:   1. Position Your Cat Correctly   The first step to successfully getting eye drops in your cat’s eye is to hold them so they can’t scamper away when they see the ointment coming – or dig their claws into your flesh!   It is best to put the cat on a table (or your lap if you trust them to keep their claws sheathed), wrapping your arm around their body to keep them still.   Image credit Swaddling him or her in a towel is a good way also of keeping them secure and preventing scratching while you move the dreaded dropper closer.   Make sure the space behind your cat is blocked so they cannot back out and flee that way.   If you can get someone else to help you hold your cat, especially at first, this can also make the process easier.     2. Correct Eye Drop Technique   Image source  With one hand, hold your cat’s head from under the jaw and use your thumb to push up towards the eye. This will create a little pouch in the lower eyelid, which can be seen above. Being careful not to touch your cat’s eye, place the tip of the applicator just above the bottom lid. Then squeeze the dropper quickly and gently (so it doesn’t squirt too much ointment). Your cat will blink, distributing the drop over the eye.   Once you are finished do not let go of your cat immediately. If you do it is likely they will immediately paw at their eyes, disturbing the liquid you just dropped in, meaning you have to begin again.   3. Use Rewards   Image credit Your cat is not going to love getting eye drops, but you can make it less than awful by praising your cat throughout the experience and giving them a treat at the end. If they associate the dropper with some positives that balance the negatives, they may not be so unwilling when they see you coming to give them their medication.   4. Have Patience   In the case of eye drops, don’t expect your first few tries to go smoothly. It can be a nerve wracking experience for your cat and difficult for owners to hold a cat and manipulate the dropper at once. But it is important for you to persist as if eye drops have been prescribed, they are important for your cat’s health.    Feature Image credit